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Paris Fashion Week continues with Spring/Summer 2021 presentations taking place both in-person and online. Here, we’re sharing details from Louis Vuitton, Longchamp, Miu Miu, and more.
The film Wings of Desire—directed by Wim Wenders in 1987—provided bold extracts for Louis Vuitton’s show scenography seen yesterday. Immersed in a bright green hue at La Samaritaine, guests were seated in regal rows below a pointed skylight ceiling, eager to see what Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière had in store for Spring/Summer 2021. Prior to the show, he teased the new women’s line on Instagram, building anticipation for a show that’s presented “in a more balanced way than we are used to.” To the tune of “Neutral”—composed by Tanguy Destable and musically directed by Woodkid—we saw looks that were suitable for both men and women. Silhouettes were playful and loose-fitting, with graphic tees, tank tops, sweatshirts, and boxy blazers paired with wide-leg trousers, below-the-knee spaghetti strap dresses, and high-waisted shorts. Structured coats, dusters, and cropped leather jackets were also seen, complementing new puffer boots for the cold months ahead. Standouts in the collection were certainly action-inspired shirts that featured text like “VOTE,” “DRIVE, and “SKATE,” as well as a handful of new bag styles: the Chroma Key, the Parisian Chic, the Blade clutch, and the Quicksilver bag.
Longchamp’s latest collection hangs on the hinges of a “less is more” concept. Photographed inside a quintessential Parisian building against checkerboard tile flooring, a grand staircase, and sizeable windows, we see Spring/Summer 2021 as a refreshing, streamlined wardrobe. Artist Director Sophie Delafontaine was inspired by the house’s home city of Paris, as well as by the work of artists like James Turrell, Louise Bourgeois, and Carol Rama. Although set to the popular rhythm of sportswear with new zip-up sweatshirts and pants with an elastic waistline, we also spotted structured looks with bright colors and floral prints that gave SS21 an ultra-feminine touch. Paired with a new metallic micro Le Pilage bag that was worn around the neck was a matching sleeveless red top and skirt—with the brand’s name broken up into letters, each sewn into its own circle. A suede cobalt blue outfit also stood out, with matching trousers and a jacket paired over a mesh top, contrasting with a striking new black crocodile skin bag with a wide silver clasp. Other new styles that are new from the house resulted in new must-have accessories: Mailbox styles in denim and all-over graphics, the Roseau and Longchamp 1980 styles in vinyl and crocodile-style leather, and a collaboration with FILT. The French manufacturer known for the famous cotton mesh shopping bag has partnered with the brand for a unique Le Pilage, complete with Russian leather handles.
Miu Miu’s fusion of the digital and the physical resulted in a unique experience to expand the contemporary needs of today. Realized by AMO, a bright pink elliptical stadium called upon the world of sports—a place not just for a show and an audience, but for observation. As the brand decided against a live show due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, it continued to forge a new path, inviting only women to view the show and appear in the screens stationed around the runway. Creative Director Miuccia Prada welcomes these women the Miu Miu Club, a space that evokes sport and style in paradoxes of fashion. Athleticwear like jerseys and velour zip-ups are paired with blouses, wrap skirts, and embellished dresses. Sneakers, boots, and high heels are seen with both sport and feminine silhouettes, and new bags, sunglasses, and accessories are colorful and significant. Continuing its focus on digital, Miu Miu also partnered with Instagram for an augmented reality filter that transforms any ordinary view into a fantastical virtual expression of the brand’s SS21 snowscape.
Maison Margiela’s hauntingly beautiful “Co-ed” collection was presented in a series of new photographs. As the second and final installment of “S.W.A.L.K.”—the film project first launched for haute couture—the house’s Creative Director John Galliano shows how artisanal ready-to-wear can be. The first line of the collection’s notes (reading “The connectivity of interdependence becomes revalued in times of separation.”) lends light to instinct, trust, and acceptance. Some models dance in dramatic tango in tailored silhouettes, like formal jackets that have been slashed open to reveal frills from their layers. Others wear muslin and tulle dresses featuring a circular cut to evoke a wet look. And nearly all others embodied the sense of “storied garments”—pieces reflecting an old soul, whether repurposed as a jumper, a suit, or a vest. Each piece and accessory in the collection operates on a numerical system, with 0 being the “Artisanal” line, and all other genderless pieces falling into the overarching “Co-Ed” line, fit into line “4” for women or “14” for men. Accessories of note were elevated straw bags, the Snatched bag in shiny black leather, the unisex Hyperion Mary-Jane shoes, and the Tango Pump kitten heels.
Although not presented in Paris, Christopher John Rogers revealed his latest offering through images photographed by Emmanuel Monsalve. By getting back to the basics, John Rogers sought inspiration from art—first from colorful artworks by primary school children. A simple, irreverent image of the sun formed by a yellow quarter-circle by crayon was the starting point, moving to other more artistically powerful influences. Works from the 1970s by Roman Catholic Sister Corita Kent and pieces by the Spanish artist Ángela de la Cruz informed shapes and color; and first-ever knitwear derived design language and color combs from designers Charles and Ray Eames. Paired with Christian Louboutin shoes were looks of leisure and luxe, play and assertion, like oversized suits, shirtdresses, and venerable matching sets. Bursting with color were pieces adorned in candy dot-inspired Swarovski crystals, floral patterns, and stripes. Tuxedo ruffles, clasps connecting the edges of a backless dress, and feathers trimming a symmetrical cape top all stood tall as details the collection will be known for.
Each x Other’s latest “Return to Origin” collection wasn’t presented in Paris either, but its digital offering on make-believe models did not disappoint. Inspirations ranged from the late 1960s in New York, from Andy Warhol’s Factory and his muses to Jean-Michel Basquiat; and logotypes and messages from the Situationist movement and The Society of the Spectacle by French philosopher Guy Debord. Pieces from a classic men’s wardrobe were fused with feminine silhouettes, imagined on characters that filled Warhol’s Factory—creators from different places, sexual orientations, and social classes. Building off of encounters and individuality, the brand’s Creative Director Ilan Delouis welcomes the public to the Each x Other Social Club—a place where we can sculpt our own lives in a wardrobe that reflects our freedom.