For Paris Fashion Week we’re sharing our favorites from the Spring/Summer 2022 collections presented by Issey Miyake, Chloé, Isabel Marant, Rick Owens, and Raf Simons.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Presented online, Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection “A Voyage in Descent” was introduced through a film by Yuichi Kodama. Capturing a narrative inspired by a deep-sea voyage, the film revealed for the season a series of fluid garments embodying things found out on the water, like silence and tranquility, or new discoveries. The maison explored the multifaceted nature of this theme through nine sets of garments. In the CARVED designs, sharp silhouettes made from curving lines made up a series of suiting meant to be worn either together or as separates. LINK RINGS is a suite of pieces in bright tones, which features sculptural shapes made from handmade pleats, reminiscent of ripples on the water. And in FLUIDITY LOOP, looks appeared to be constantly in motion, having been formed out of spiral-shaped knits, crafted from recycled polyester yarn. The collection also included the printed SWIMMING silhouettes, the solid-colored SWIMMING HUE series, and WAVELET where a dying process created a rippled effect on asymmetrical styles, like a one-sleeved dress with a long, tiered skirt.
Courtesy of Chloé.
Surrounding the idea that “It’s all about love,” Chloé’s Gabriela Hearst continued the house’s quest for environmental responsibility in beautiful, sentimental pieces. Now up to 58 percent of the fabrications used classified as lower impact—an ever-increasing number for the brand—the moment debuted Chloè Craft, an initiative outsourcing production to independent artisans in response to the increasingly industrial nature of the fashion world. The season’s designs gave us the impression of a symbiotic relationship with nature, accomplished through natural tones accompanied by colorful details and thoughtful elements, like prints hand-painted with vegetable dyes, metal talisman adornments, macrame made from leftover fabrics, and gemstones and shells added as embellishments.
Courtesy of Isabel Marant.
Presenting its new collection to a soundtrack by Gabber Eleganza, Isabel Marant’s sunset-hued designs offered memories of long, summer days spent at the beach, and the carefree attitude of throwing on something comfortable en-route to the pool. Finding inspiration in the imagery of Swiss fashion photographer Hans Feurer, the collection embraced a sensual femininity, paired playfully with the ease of athletic wear. There were parachute silhouettes, bikinis worn as daywear, and styles like jumpsuits, skirts, and dresses reinvented with a sporty attitude. Looks we loved included a top and skort set in an iridescent silky fabric, reminiscent of elevated activewear; a brightly printed jumpsuit styled with an oversized hooded jacket and strappy heels; and an all-white ensemble featuring a white sundress unbuttoned to the top, worn over a pair of satiny white track pants.
Courtesy of Rick Owens.
Rick Owens returned to the runway live and in-person for its Spring/Summer 2022 debuts, presenting the collection “Fogachine” at the Palais de Tokyo. Outdoors to a distorted soundscape by Mochipet (meant to capture the hedonism of the present-day), an enticing palette of hues like peachy pink, chartreuse, and muted blue composed a series of abstracted silhouettes crafted from the brand’s futuristic lens. There were shapes featuring gauzy hemlines, strong shoulders, repurposed garments, and moments of elegant draping of fabric. Looks we’re still thinking about include a knitwear ensemble that could have been made from overlapping deteriorating sweaters, a nearly transparent goddess silhouette in blue featuring a white throw worn about the shoulders, and a sheer top with feather details styled with thigh-high gladiator sandals in glossy black material and a structural skirt in black sequins.
Courtesy of Raf Simons.
Oversized silhouettes typically associated with the menswear wardrobe were the basis of the Spring/Summer 2022 debuts from Raf Simons. Ruggedly romantic, the presentation featured long, roomy tops falling layered over straight skirts, shorts, and trousers. Familiar garments like striped oxford button-ups, classic knit styles, or duster coats were made unique through details like painted graphics, skeleton cuffs worn at the biceps, and large sections of mesh filling in V-necks. Accompanied by accessories like bucket hats, sack totes, and black shoes—either a pointed heel or lace-up loafers—standout looks included an olive-green sweater worn over a striped shirt and knee-length skirt, and a black skirt suit worn open at the chest, featuring gothic scripted graphics on the front.
