Paris FW 18: Miu Miu, Valentino, Off-White, and More

In the midst of wrought iron railings, marble pillars, and ceilings filled with clouds of balloons, we caught Off-White’s dreamy collection “West Village.” Jacquard tapestry body suits, quilted silk riding capes, and bustier tops gave subtle nods to romanticism—all complemented by a modern spin that stayed true to creative director Virgil Abloh’s aesthetic. Along with pieces in dusty blues, grays, and creams, the line featured a number of bold garments in shiny snakeskin and allover sequins. We also saw an assortment of athletic-inspired footwear, and the recurring Off-White logo.

A maze of black metal structures and a stained wood and marble fireplace created the perfect modern and classic set—just like the pieces in Loewe’s new collection. Quintessential patterns like plaid and chevron were seen throughout the collection, but not necessarily in expected ways. Houndstooth dresses were paired with fur hems and white bustier-details, while traditional trouser and jacket parings were given leather saddlebag pockets and blocks of mixed materials. We also saw several variations of a daring floor-length dress that featured large cutouts in the midsection and colorful, textured yarn fringe.

Influenced by the gentle yet enduring strength of nature, Issey Miyake brought us “Silent Energy.” The spunky collection featured textured knits that paired vivid, energetic colors with black, navy, or brown to create geometric patterns. Thick knits and other sturdy materials made up pleats and reinforced unstructured silhouettes, creating a line that truly embodied strength.

An open space touched with greenery and natural light set a bright and welcoming scene for the new simplistic-yet-sweet Valentino collection. The garments, loose and flowing in silhouette, included a number of cheery colors and immaculate details (liked large scalloped edges and soft ruffles). Key features included billowing sleeves, hooded cloaks, and lively floral details that came in a number of printed, embroidered, and patchwork variations.

Miu Miu presented its new collection alongside a visual installation of black and white signs, symbols, and indices to raise the idea that a fashion show is an alphabetical collection of behaviors. Suspended above the audience, a loop reading “The Miu Miu Type: An ABC of Actions Behaviors and Comportments” represented the new Miu Miu language—something the brand is using to bring fresh sense of spontaneity to their name. With elements like acid washed denim and oversized leather paired with mini skirts and ankle strap heels, the collection itself was oozing with retro vibes that certainly lived up to their new language.

Elie Saab’s new collection exuded mystery and dark romance with a show of lights and fog, and misty hue that are seen with the onset of colder seasons. Inspired by the Victorian era, the demure collection featured floor length hems, high necks, ornate lace details, and a number of bows and embellishments reminiscent of Pierre Auguste Renoir’s paintings. Colorful floral blooms were seen accompanying the mostly-black color palette, along with a sprinkling of elegant pale blues, blushes, and burgundy shades. Alongside the signature floral, the Elie Saab emblem was also seen as an allover print, and as a carved golden element on some of the line’s accessories.