Paris Haute Couture FW18: Ralph & Russo and Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel presented its latest collection, “L’Atelier,” created with the idea of perfecting the balance between functionality and elegance. Set in the statue-filled École des Beaux-Arts cloisters, models walked within the indoor/outdoor setting with an ease that showed off the movement-focused details of each garment. A white corset top was paired with a billowing skirt, feathered veil, and denim bellbottoms, made its way through the open air hallway and out into the sun kissed courtyard, where one last parade around a stone monument showed of modern takes on the 50-year-old house’s codes. This was the first time artistic director Julie de Libran has shown during couture week, and she proved ready for the task at hand. “The challenge was to create pieces that were special but anti-precious, adapted to the lifestyle of today’s woman. With the craftsmen in the Rykiel Paris atelier and our knitwear mills, we have refined and redefined the techniques and savoir-faire to create a collection which I believe is pure essence of Rykiel, but personal to me. It is to them that I dedicate this collection,” said de Libran.

Ralph & Russo really put on a show at the Pavilion Cambon Capucines this week. The runway was made up of two triangular neon tunnels framing a mirrored catwalk that made us see double (we’re not complaining). Glowing against the violet light, dresses sparkled, flowed, and fluttered down the runway. Models were styled with the hair pulled back into a complicated chignon, with colorful 80s-eque beauty details. There was an impressive hand pleated chiffon gown in bright yellow and a draped double satin panel dress in raspberry, tangerine, and purple. The final look—bridal, of course—wowed in Chantilly lace, oversized corsage shoulders, and a cascading tulle train. The fall/winter 2018-19 collection found inspiration in feminist icon Jacqueline de Ribes who said, “Clothes, like good architecture, have to respond to a rhythm of life. You can’t be elegant without being graceful, and you can’t be graceful if you’re not at ease.”