We’re reflecting on the Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture collections that debuted last week in Paris by Zuhair Murad, Miss Sohee, Maison Sara Chraibi, and Yuima Nakazato.
Courtesy of Zuhair Murad.
With its collection “Exquisite Dynasty,” Zuhair Murad invoked imagery of the blue waters of the French Riviera, kisses of golden sun rays, and heiresses lounging outside of chateaus in wide-brimmed hats. Looks embodying a new realization of old-age glamor suggested that taking extra measures of pomp and circumstance is worth the fuss. Luxe silken fabrications were in line with whimsical Riviera days and warm nights filled with parties and cocktails (imagined in hues like Caribbean blue, soft pink, flame orange, and yellow), seen paired with echoes of the Roaring Twenties—fringes, embroidery pulling from Belle Époque architecture, garments with bejeweled details, and ornate headpieces. Standout looks included an all-white ensemble featuring an ornate blazer with cut-outs, a sheer skirt with grid beading, and a scarf and elegant sunhat; a detailed, beaded catsuit in vivid green with showgirl costume appeal; and a bright rose-colored jumpsuit with a fitted waist and a thigh-high split, featuring glittering details on the sleeves, paired with a matching jeweled cap.
Courtesy of Miss Sohee.
Miss Sohee’s collection pulled on influences like the changing of seasons, the design of the Korean Hanbok, and 1500s illustrations of seasonal plants and insects by the artist, poet, and calligraphist Shin Saimdang. Sculptural silhouettes highlighted the figure with beautiful shapes and lines that originated in the details of nature—bloomer briefs with seashell pleats, a one-shouldered dress that bloomed like an orchid, and overlays at the hips that bloomed like flower petals. These nature-inspired elements also carried over to details like floral embroideries, all-over jewels that sparkled like dew on grass, earrings reminiscent of boughs of wisteria, and a palette that reminded us of a shadowed garden at dusk. The collection was responsibly crafted using upcycled, deadstock, and surplus fabrications.
Courtesy of Yuima Nakazato.
Yuima Nakazato’s collection “Inherit” was inspired by—and partially derived from—the vast amount of discarded clothing left to litter the earth in Kenya. Traveling to the country in preparation, Nakazato was inspired by the methods of fashion and adornment of tribespeople living in the country’s desert—colorful, handcrafted traditional garments with beading that are handed down from generation to generation. From this trip, the brand not only took stock of this method and ethos of dress, but had more than 300 pounds of discarded clothing transported back to Japan, which was then recycled using Seiko Epson’s dry fiber technology, transforming it into new textiles. The resulting collection featured wrapped, draped, and robe-like silhouettes that were conceived from the designer’s travels, including graphics created from imagery taken of the mounds of discarded cloth—like a long one-sleeved gown silhouette made from amply-cut fabric in colorful spots, styled with bright yellow spiky beaded jewelry, or an abstract silhouette in ruffled, pleated indigo that enclosed the wearer’s arms.
Courtesy of Maison Sara Chraibi.
We saw a certain poise and eclectic mysticism imbued from Maison Sara Chraïbi’s latest debuts. Bearing influences of the designer’s upbringing in Rabat, Morocco, the garments reflected kaftan shapes and the ornate artistry of the location’s traditional dress, updated with a contemporary couture feel. Long silhouettes encompassed skirts, dresses, and looks with fluid trousers—some free-flowing in supple fabrications with cropped tops or beaded details and overlays, while others were more fitted to the body, like a cleanly-tailored blazer that dissolved into a beaded skirt with fringe. There were loose kaftans with puffed sleeves and plunging necklines, sleek looks with veils and headpieces that floated airily, and simpler shapes with intricate details like a red gown with a lattice bodice or a top made completely of beading. Models were styled with cuff bracelets, strappy heels, and waist-length tresses that were wound into tight braids.
