The vibrant city is abuzz with fashion artistry, as international crowds gather to see the debut of top designer’s latest creations. The collections draw from a wide range of inspirations, from superheroes to the flutter of wind. Read below for some of our highlights from Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Acne Studios, Kenzo, and more.
Acne Studios Looks Back in Time
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Reminiscing on the wonders of the superhero, Acne Studios brought nostalgia and a balancing act of endearment and transgression to its collection. Ensembles featured motifs like the female superheroes of classical DC stories, airbrushes created by London-based artist Coldf33t, and heart doodles. The garments fit within the color scheme of earthy orange, cognac, and tobacco alongside hazy pinks and blues, with multi-textured appearances of black.
“I think what’s interesting with clothing is that it can empower you. I can feel really strong just having the right clothing at the right moment,” said Creative Director Johnny Johansson. “That’s a little bit what I’m trying to do here, you know, that’s why that empowering thing is kind of like – it has superpowers!”
Egonlab Uplifts Human Resilience
Courtesy of Egonlab, photo by Gorka Postigo.
Courtesy of Egonlab, photo by Gorka Postigo.
Egonlab’s “Notes from Underground” looked into the shadows to unearth a parallel world of disenfranchisement and resistance. With its collection, which included menswear and womenswear, the French brand sought to provide a look into the complex coexistence of hardship and victory.
The lookbook featured snapshots of ensembles photographed in the streets of London. This latest collection included plays on traditional elevated styles—argyle, loafers, and bearskin hats—with a punk twist. Models sported spear-pointed collars, baggy tailored trousers, and denim faded to reflect long-time use. Egonlab’s newest season also plays with the mystical, as one ensemble features a white and blue knight’s armor-style top matched with sleek black trousers.
KENZO’s Palais-Royal Show and its Japanese Inspirations
Courtesy of KENZO.
Courtesy of KENZO.
KENZO lit up Paris’ Palais-Royal for their runway showcase of the maison’s women’s and men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. It drew inspiration from the vibrant colors of origami meshed with adapted revivals of Kenzo’s archived designs. In collaboration with the Japanese graphic artist Verdy, the collection integrated his classic signature into the collection’s designs.
KENZO’s Creative Director Nigo blended elements from traditional Japanese styles and materials, alongside drawing from Kenzo’s archival projects. One vivid peony print was drawn from traditional ink-wash paintings, while another Chiku-rin Camo included imagery of Japanese bamboo in a range of purple, green, and lime. KENZO’s latest menswear mixed Eastern and Western silhouettes with their outerwear, relaxed tailoring, and satin trousers inspired by tobi-shoku, worn by Japanese scaffolders. The womenswear collection featured colorful wrap dresses and skirts inspired by hanjuban, kimono undergarments.
Courrèges is Inspired by A Summer-To-Be
Photo by Mark Borthwick, courtesy of Courrèges.
Photo by Mark Borthwick, courtesy of Courrèges.
Citing this year as the longest winter in decades, Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 women’s and men’s pre-collection presented the light at the end of the tunnel: summertime. The ensembles were a collection of lightweight materials including flowy satin and mesh, juxtaposed with asymmetrical buttons, canvas, and denim. From its all-shielding trench coats to entirely mesh dresses, the collection was a journey through a summer escape.
Creative Director Nicolas Di Felice brought the seashore to Courrèges. This is particularly clear in the usage of athletic accents within the maison’s new daywear, for example, with pockets inspired by water sports attire and formed with a mixture of Nappa leather and scuba jersey. The collection’s shoes also evoke the appearance of scuba footwear.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Collection Flutters Like the Wind
Photo by Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet, courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
Photo by Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet, courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
At Paris’s Mobilier National this week, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake debuted “Up, Up, and Away,” presenting a lightweight and freeing collection. The fashion house explored wind as its foundational inspiration, crafting garments that encompass the wonders of the natural element.
All of the collection’s materials and techniques were a testament to the fashion house’s craftsmanship. Garments made of lightweight textiles with billowing silhouettes suggested that their wearer was floating in the air. With their windswept Plaid Print series, the maison aimed to capture the rapid movement and mesmerizing flutter of wind. Another highlight was the Kite Coat, inspired by the beauty of airborne kites as they fly in the air.
