In the final stretch of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, a quieter but more deliberate mood emerged. Rather than chasing spectacle, designers focused on tailoring and the reworking of familiar forms, treating silhouette as a site of investigation. OUR LEGACY asked what makes a garment pure, stripping workwear and tailoring back to function and feeling. Sacai continued its precise dismantling of uniforms, hybridizing shirts, tailoring, and denim into engineered constructions. At AMIRI, formalwear softened into something lived-in, shaped by music and ease rather than ceremony, while Jacquemus revisited archival codes through geometry and intimate detail.
Across these collections, color played a supporting role—used to clarify structure, not dominate it. The season favored intention over impact, proving that evolution often happens through refinement rather than reinvention.
White Mountaineering: Post De Stijl
Courtesy of White Mountaineering.
Inspired by the order and abstraction of De Stijl, White Mountaineering approached color through reduction rather than expression. For Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the collection deconstructed primary hues into restrained, monochromatic compositions—black, white, beige, green, and purple—reframing them within a philosophy of “form follows function.” The result prioritized proportion, structure, and the body in motion over visual excess.
Color played a secondary, almost architectural role, used to clarify construction rather than shape mood. By unifying looks within singular tones, the collection avoided dramatic light-and-shadow effects, directing attention instead to cut, layering, and movement. Garments moved fluidly down the runway in oversized, utilitarian silhouettes designed to adapt to the body rather than impose upon it. Texture carried much of the visual weight, reinforcing the balance between practicality and design. As the show notes explained, the collection distilled years of exploration “among the ambiguity between functional wear and fashion,” landing firmly in a space where utility and intention coexist.
Undercover: 100% KHAOTIQUE NOIR
Photography © Cindy Sherman. Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth.
Photography © Cindy Sherman. Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth.
Founded and led by Jun Takahashi, Undercover remains a cult Japanese label defined by rebellion, intellect, and the subversion of binaries. Known for unexpected collisions of material, color, and cut, the brand grounded this season in restraint, centering its world on black and texture. Charcoal grey, deep brown, and navy set the tone, punctuated sparingly by flashes of red and yellow.
The collection reframes everyday dressing through elevated fabrication, prioritizing comfort and ease without sacrificing edge. Takahashi emphasized garments that adapt to the body rather than constrain it, opening with all-black looks that explored texture, layering, and elongated proportions. As the narrative unfolded, color surfaced quietly through cardigans and outerwear, some featuring graphic imagery on the back—revealing a second identity in motion, depending on the wearer’s direction. Rooted in punk and street culture, the collection resisted predictability, delivering its impact subtly, often at the last moment.
TAAKK: Impulse, Springing Up
Photography by Ko Tsuchiya. Courtesy of TAAKK.
Photography by Ko Tsuchiya. Courtesy of TAAKK.
Founder Takuya Morikawa looked to Japan’s ancient Jomon culture for TAAKK’s latest collection, drawing inspiration from the prehistoric hunter-gatherers who lived in close harmony with the land, forest, rivers, and sea. Known for their ceramic vessels marked by rope-like cord patterns, the Jomon embodied a way of life shaped by movement, adaptability, and respect for nature—values Morikawa translated into a contemporary fashion language.
Silhouettes felt fluid and intuitive rather than rigid, with relaxed volumes, layered constructions, and garments that appeared shaped by movement and touch. The palette remained grounded and elemental—earth browns, stone greys, softened neutrals, and muted organic tones—allowing material and texture to lead. Rather than adhering to strict Japanese minimalism, the artisan’s hand guided the process, freeing fabric to respond organically. Gradient textiles blurred boundaries as cotton dissolved into wool and nylon, while patchworked fur remnants addressed material waste. Supple wagyu leather, used as a byproduct, was embroidered into sculptural surfaces, reinforcing a vision where craft, sustainability, and harmony coexist.
OUR LEGACY: Just Clothes
Photography by Lo Vahlström. Courtesy of OUR LEGACY.
Photography by Lo Vahlström. Courtesy of OUR LEGACY.
“What makes a pure garment?” read the show notes—a question OUR LEGACY set out to answer at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The collection examines clarity, restraint, and emotional weight through function-first design shaped by Sweden’s austere climate. Utilitarian references—workwear, military liners, inherited tailoring—were revisited not as nostalgia, but as lived forms refined over time.
Silhouettes moved between precision and ease: elongated coats with rounded shoulders, half-raglan sleeves that stretched the arm line, cropped blazers cut below the pocket, and trousers tailored through the thigh before gently widening at the hem. Shirts and knits softened structure through pleats, sheer cotton voiles, viscose jacquards, and ultra-fine merino, allowing movement to guide form. The palette stayed deliberately subdued—black, washed greys, muted browns, and shadowed neutrals—absorbing light rather than commanding it. Obsolete techniques, aged finishes, and irregular dyes restored a sense of honesty to the garments. Select pieces carried a quiet inscription: “There is a time and a place for everything. From the bottom of our hearts, thank you.”
Officine Générale: Essentialism
Courtesy of Officine Générale.
Courtesy of Officine Générale.
Following Pierre Mahéo’s evocative “Pariviera” presentation last June, staged across the streets of Paris, Officine Générale returned this season with a quieter, more introspective narrative. For Fall/Winter, Mahéo looked to École Duperré—founded in 1864 by Elisa Lemonnier as a vocational school for women in dressmaking and applied arts—as a symbolic point of departure, grounding the collection in craft, discipline, and continuity.
The palette narrowed to Mahéo’s essentials: muted browns, navy, black, and white. Silhouettes simplified, volumes softened, and lines sharpened through subtle seasonal adjustments. Fabrics emphasized reliability and wearability—light flannels worn head-to-toe, wool satins, cotton poplins, and discreet cashmere accents—while classic patterns such as herringbone, stripes, polka dots, and Prince of Wales added rhythm without excess.
Rather than chasing spectacle, the collection reaffirmed Officine Générale’s core values: utility, longevity, and restraint. These were clothes designed to live beyond the runway—pieces that respond to season and function, allowing the wearer to dress them up or down with ease, anchored in purpose rather than performance.
Jacquemus: Le Palmier
Courtesy of Jacquemus.
Courtesy of Jacquemus.
Set inside the Musée Picasso Paris, Jacquemus returned with “Le Palmier,” a collection bathed in the first glow of a party evening. For Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Simon Porte Jacquemus entered into dialogue with his archives, grounding the collection in geometry and close-fitting elegance. Rounded shoulders, tulip waists, circular hats, and bias-cut skirts created a fitted silhouette that felt both sculptural and effortless.
Stripes and polka dots were reimagined as curved grosgrain ribbons and confetti motifs in red, blue, yellow, and black, while the recurring fish shape—first seen in earlier collections—returned to sculpt coats, suits, and accessories. A pointed oval calisson form appeared subtly across collars, pockets, and sleeve tabs, sharpening the line. Revisiting the spirit of “La Bomba” from 2017, “Le Palmier” celebrates Jacquemus’ early Paris years through refined craft and playful precision. For men, understated nonchalance surfaced in details like fish-shaped bib-front shirts, graphic leather overcoats, and sharply tailored evening pieces—clothes that balance elegance with instinctive ease
BLUEMARBLE: Grounded Ease
Courtesy of BLUEMARBLE.
Courtesy of BLUEMARBLE.
BLUEMARBLE sharpened its core silhouettes this season, stripping back to a clearer, more durable expression of identity rooted in relaxed sophistication and an instinctive ease with formality. The collection felt focused and essential, designed as a wardrobe meant to last. An encounter with vertigo at the Fondation Carmignac shaped the narrative: a moment of disorientation where perception shifts, balance resets, and the senses sharpen once the body loses its anchor.
That suspended feeling translated into a playful tension between refinement and nonchalance. Relaxed tailoring met softness and texture—shirtings and knitwear finished with raw edges, piping tracing shoulders and legs, and plaid motifs grounding the looks. Mohair, wool, and cashmere polos added warmth and tactility, while denim was elevated through patchworked panels, molten studs, and overdyed finishes. The palette remained earthy and restrained: browns, beiges, and deep reds drawn from soil, stone, sky, and weathered metal. Together, the pieces articulated a quiet confidence—balanced, intentional, and lived-in rather than styled.
AMIRI: Laurel Canyon Ease
Courtesy of AMIRI.
Courtesy of AMIRI.
For Paris Men’s Fashion Week, AMIRI returned to its roots, drawing from Los Angeles and the music culture that shaped Mike Amiri’s career. The men’s and women’s collection looked to Laurel Canyon—long a center of counterculture and creativity—reframing its ’70s spirit through a contemporary lens of individuality and ease.
Formalwear softened into something personal and lived-in. Tailoring appeared relaxed and intuitive—blazers layered over Henleys, denim worn from day to night, boots replacing dress shoes. Inspired by artists’ hybrid wardrobes, pieces moved fluidly across genders: boyfriend suits crossed into women’s looks, embroidered knits shifted between his and hers. Denim anchored the collection, elevated with velvet flocking and precise embroidery, while western wear, officer jackets, leather, and classic jeans formed a modern American foundation. A hazed palette of merlot, burgundy, sage, mint, and washed blues added nostalgia without sentimentality. The result balanced elegance and effortlessness—clothes designed to exist on stage, then walk seamlessly into real life.
“Men’s formalwear is most interesting when it feels effortless and personal.”
-Mike Amiri
Sacai: Hybrid Tailoring
Courtesy of Sacai.
Courtesy of Sacai.
Designer and founder Chitose Abe returned to her signature language of reconstruction at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, continuing Sacai’s practice of creating through dismantling. This season, Abe sharpened her focus on tailoring: crisp shirts and ties were reworked with scarf-like neckpieces wrapped loosely around the collar, replacing the traditional knot with fluidity.
Hybrid garments remained central. Skirt–trouser forms were engineered rather than layered, combining wide-leg pants with cropped proportions. Jackets were split horizontally, with lower sections reattached to the lining, disrupting the expected structure. Denim appeared as both garment and installation, with Sacai’s Type 1 and Type 2 denim jackets—developed with Levi’s—spliced into flared silhouettes or fused with leather biker details and bomber elements. For a third collaboration with A.P.C., Abe introduced a newly recolored fabric inspired by Jessica Ogden, filtering another voice through Sacai’s precise, hybrid lens.
