Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS19: Hermès, Paul Smith, Acne Studios, and More

Dunhill’s creative director Mark Weston sought to overturn the archetypal codes of British menswear by bringing classic formality to the nonchalance of everyday dressing. Presented under the stone covering of an elegant French courtyard, the brand’s new collection felt as though we were peeking in on a modern-day fairytale. Throughout the collection, wrapped tailoring replaced classic overcoats, business attire and sportswear merged, and a warm selection of mustard, taupe, and other earth tones created a versatile palette that’s appropriate for many occasions.

Paul Smith’s pastels and soft tailoring were highlighted as they made their way down a runway illuminated by strips of stage lighting. In the new offering we saw loose silhouettes and the lightness and agility associated with sportswear, but in garments like blazers, trousers, and button-up shirts. Also featured were a series of special printed fabrics, displaying archival photographs taken by the designer and his father, Harold Smith.

In an industrial venue, similarly to a stylish parking garage, Sacai’s latest collection pushed the boundaries of the construction of traditional clothing, questioning what qualifies something as “complete.” Open zippers, raw denim, and loose hems made their way through a maze of stacked stereo equipment, roped and tied off as if it were ready for shipment. Throughout the collection we saw Pendleton blankets reimagined in items like sweaters, socks, and shoes, as well as Dr. Woo’s tattoo art utilized an embroidery pattern.

Acne Studios presented a collection of deliberate misinterpretations, working to create a liberated way of dress. Garments essential to the collection were purposefully created as if they were something else—like tech jackets cut like tuxedos, trousers reinvented in nylon, and jeans created as if they were blousons. The runway featured sculptures in dichroic glass by artist Dawn Bendick, whose glowing, colorful work also fueled some inspiration for the collection.

A stone walkway wove through a backyard garden landscape, setting the stage for Hermès’ new collection. Luxurious yet perfectly understated, the collection featured pops of color throughout a predominately neutral palette. A highlight of the collection was a simplistic pairing of lightweight trousers, a matching blazer (sans shirt), and sandals—all in a soft gray, a staple in today’s sophisticated summer wardrobe.