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Menswear presentations are in full swing, and this week, we’re homing in on those in Paris. Below is Whitewall‘s must-see roundup of Spring/Summer 2019 presentations that will have men longing for an extended summer season.
Freedom, confidence, and awareness were the themes in Jil Sander’s new presentation. The collection offered a progressive re-imagining of the traditional men’s wardrobe by introducing garments like soft kilts and knee-length shirts into the utilitarian uniform. Geometric tailoring, simple motifs, and a color palette based on the gray scale were seen throughout the collection, offering a sense of familiarity that’s meant to instill a sense of confidence in the wearer. The collection was presented in front of a simplistic concrete wall, allowing the clothing to personify the ideals by which it was created.
Thom Browne introduced its funky take on the modern-day preppy wardrobe by playing with large proportion, playful patterns, and bright colors. The collection featured traditional ginghams, seersuckers, and rugby stripes with a twist—layering large coats over coats, mixing and matching patterns, and topping off each look with a bowler hat. Making its way through the suburban landscape of Astroturf, picket fences, and larger-than-life pinwheels, we saw what was perhaps the most eye-catching look of all in the collection—a sea creature-themed ensemble in which paired two overcoats (one featuring crabs, one featuring lobsters) with gingham-printed pieces, whale-covered trousers, and platform oxfords.
Issey Miyake blurred the boundaries between work and leisure, debuting a collection that can be worn just about anywhere. Meant to fit the ever-changing lifestyles of its wearers, the garments were created with a playful and flexible attitude, featuring versatile looks like a shirt worn as a jacket. The collection (which also includes two unique textile motifs inspired by shadows and streaming sunlight) was showcased in a serene open-air setting that mimicked the adaptable nature of the clothes.
Following the idea that fashion is authentic when it speaks about life, Valentino’s SS19 collection created an occasion where street wear and couture merged. The collection featured tracksuits, bombers, baseball caps, and sneakers—using street wear to renounce the ideals of couture. A backdrop reminiscent of James Turrell’s art complemented the mosaic tile floors and stone columns of the Parisian show space, furthering the unity of two separate worlds. The return of VLTN was also seen printed on pants, accompanied by small indulgences like fuchsia, mint green, and feather details.