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In what Valentino labels “silent sedition,” their 2015 men’s spring/summer collection rebels against the high fashion norm of a suit with mixed florals and dance scenes on silk pants and Woodstock-esque leather jackets. They have suits; they’re just doused with prints and graphics, innovating a classic and breaking a stereotype.
The color and material palette is earthy: colors of ruby, stone, and mint on raw silk shantung, chambray, and cashmere. Combining classy formal and relaxed sporty, the collection was as contrary as wearing pajamas out of the house – and it worked.
Berluti’s menswear collection also colors outside the lines by combining formal and sporty. Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori said he wanted to combine the high quality of haute couture to “create a new generation of sports couture garments.”
The sports couture look comes from mixing sport-like materials and neutral, organic tones in timeless silhouettes. Lightweight mohair and silk was used alongside leather-crafting techniques. A large effort went into the extensive functionality of the collection, as well. The culmination of these two elements is best seen in the brand’s “Playtime” sneaker, which is created from a single piece of patinated leather, designed with the pragmatism of a tennis shoe.