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Referential to the eccentric L’Après-Midi d’un Faune, a scandalous 1912 ballet performed by the Ballets Russes, Rick Owens’ spring/summer 2015 collection (titled “Faun”) was an ode to primal expression. Diaper-like shorts could serve as primal clothing for the Faun, and a collaboration with Adidas Springblade provided animalistic shoes for each look. Severity in shape was evident in Owens’ tent-like tunics and jackets hanging from models with cross-body straps, and a recurring scarf trailing along with several looks was a nod to the artificial expression of primitive longing.
Raf Simons presented a collection of jackets, button-ups, and subtly layered patterns with an emotional backstory to a standing audience. Invisible from a front view of the looks, several of the collection’s coats featured pieces of Simons’ personal history on their collars — images of his parents, a roller coaster he rode with his friends, a shark (Jaws as a reference to his love for horror movies), and other moments from his lifetime.
For Lanvin’s spring/summer 2015 collection, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver focused on the changing lifestyles of men and the decline of the traditional suit. Combining refinement and mobility, models came down the runway in pants with higher-than-normal waists, baggy shirts, tailored leather pieces, and paper clips attached to their jackets. Unfinished stitching and threads ready to come undone aided the collection’s rushed, undone aesthetic but held onto a sense of Lanvin luxury.