Paris men’s fashion week is well underway, with houses debuting Fall/Winter 2023 collections. Here you’ll find details on the debuts from Dries Van Noten, AMI, System Studios, and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Introduced to a live soundtrack of compositions by the experimental Belgian music duo Lander & Adriaan, Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear wardrobe was an homage to the beauty of nature. Woven together from earthen tones, raw fabrics, flora and fauna motifs, and the most subtle nod to rave culture, the resulting garments posed for the daytime and casual affairs a blend of romanticism and streetwear (picture a juxtaposition of florals with sports jerseys) and looks with a more subdued artistic allure for elevated occasions—like a series of sharp suits and closely-tailored silhouettes. Illustrations from Belgium’s Meise Botanic Garden became the collection’s prints and graphics, imagining unfurling blooms and birds in flight across the garments. Some styles alluded to nature’s motifs more subtly, including fine chain details reminiscent of coiling snakes and abstracted prints that reminded us of the shadows of leaves. Meanwhile, we saw garments in all-over prints and covered in intricate embroideries making a bolder statement—like a silken jacket with beautiful botanical screen printing and a parka and matching hoodie in a muted, weathered flowery print.
Courtesy of AMI.
AMI’s collection“Prelude” kept it classic and distinguished, presenting a collection of men’s and womenswear for the Fall/Winter 2023 season. Ideas of the suit in all of its forms were explored atop the runway in a thoughtful selection of colors like cream, navy, buttercup yellow, khaki, and robin’s egg blue. The shapes were soft and fluid and gave the feeling of a wearer who searches for elegance and beauty in the everyday—seen through looks like a light blue shirt left partially unbuttoned and tucked into a pair of spacious pleated trousers; an oversized blazer with no sleeves, styled with flowy pants and a squared alligator leather handbag; and a neutral tee and shorts that were worn underneath a long overcoat, styled with tall socks and black loafers.
Courtesy of LGN by Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
Looking at Bret Easton Ellis’s 1991 book American Psycho, LGN by Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s debuts reflected on the violence and horror that come to pass as beauty and strength under the guise of toxic masculinity. Walking the runway, we saw a cast of models of all body types, who sported styles that harnessed the comfort of loungewear while upholding the refinement of eveningwear. In addition to wardrobe staples like trenches and suiting (which featured wide shoulders and a narrowed waist), there were robe-like overcoats, knit sweaters and oxford button-ups worn with matching soft pants, blouses worn open at the chest, and pants that were cut like joggers, but imagined in glossy black silk.
Courtesy of System Studios.
Chic simplicity and an air of cool are the impressions System Studios’s Fall/Winter 2023 debuts gave off. Finding inspiration in the essay River of Shadows,about the life of the photographer Eadweard Muybridge, the clothing follows Muybridge’s work The Horse in Motion, also considering the concept of “Returning Legacy” (which prompted the brand to look at its own 32 years of history and heritage) in the designs. Reinterpreting the movement of Muybridge’s 1878 photograph through a show of lights during the presentation, we saw the collection of black and neutrals including comfortable silhouettes with loose-fitted nonchalance—like button-up leather shirt jackets, wide-legged jeans worn with roomy overcoats, slip dresses, and textural knits.
