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Mary McCartney: Moment of Affection

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Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.

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Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Courtesy of Celine.
Courtesy of Hermes.
Courtesy of Loewe.
Courtesy of Kenzo.
Courtesy of Hermès.
Fashion

Paris Menswear SS23: Celine, Hermes, Kenzo, and More

By Selen Ozturk

June 28, 2022

Brands at Paris Men’s Fashion Week are sharing their latest collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. Here, you’ll find the latest details from Celine, Hermes, Kenzo, Acne, and Loewe.

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Courtesy of Celine.

Heidi Slimane embellished Celine’s sleek releases with crystals gleaming against a backdrop of hundreds of car headlights. The show, held at the Palais de Tokyo, marked the 20th anniversary of the museum and Slimane’s Dior Homme FW22 show at the Palais, and for this occasion he “wanted to pay tribute to the institution and remember this moment in his menswear reform.” The pieces shared a sleek, androgynous rockabilly spirit with black leather pants, faded low-rise jeans, and sequined gray tuxedo trousers paired with studded, fringed, and sequined blousons, embroidered leather bomber jackets and ponchos, and tuxedo tops, with camo-print and glittering metallic fringed coats as outerwear. The eccentric accents shone amid muted black, metallic, ivory, and rust tones and pointy black and white leather heeled boots.

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Courtesy of Hermes.

Hermes’ latest collection captured the bright and vibrant open air of summer, with hues of lemonade, lilac, melon green, stone gray, ivory white, creamy brown, and bubble gum pink, and fabrics of calfskin, nubuck, light satin, crepe, mesh, cotton canvas, poplin, and linen. Zippered and hooded blousons and boxy collarless shirts were paired with double-hood parkas and windbreakers, double-breasted and straight-cut jackets, short-sleeve turtleneck pullovers, large pleated trousers with strap belts, and pleated bermuda shorts with stitched pockets and drawstring waists. Hand-woven belts, bucket hats, palladium-finish metal and bridle leather bracelets and rings, printed H logo beach bags, and sandals in neoprene canvas and calfskin abounded.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Kenzo.

Kenzo’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection echoed and reimagined the brand’s iconic hues and silhouettes, drawing inspiration from the DC Brand Boom of 1980’s Japan, the milieu in which Artistic Director Nigo first discovered the brand. The contrast between classic tailored preppy and workwear shapes and the poppy and cartoonish animal appliqué and print motifs echoed Kenzo’s meld of graphically-driven Japanese flair with Parisian sartorial culture. Japanese denim, drill and linen cotton, jacquard and moleton wool, and nylon, satin, and lace abounded in intarsia knit varsity jackets and gilets, shirts with nautically influenced sailor collars, Breton stripes, and naval bunting, tops with pixelated floral prints, and Aloha floral prints reminiscent of Hawaiian shirts constructed from cut-up kimonos. Alongside schoolboy satchels, straw hats and boaters, and trilby hats, the collection debuted a new Kenzo basketball shoe, running shoe, and a rubber slide iteration of the traditional Japanese Zori sandal.

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Courtesy of Acne Studios.

Acnes newest collection celebrated and subverted weddingwear. Pastels and pearly hues were invigorated with neon greens, deep reds and oranges, and royal purples, and formal shapes and proportions were skewed as oversized shoulders and flared, over-extended hems were paired with micro-shorts and cropped, second-skin knits. The textures, too, echoed and played with formal exuberance: wedding-night silk bed sheets became suits with oversized lapels, washed-out rose-print satin petticoats became boxy shirts and delicate shorts, slender knits bore tulle ruffles, and tinsel-studded and long-haired knitwear took on a homemade feel. Denim and canvas bags sported monogram prints, while leather derbies were paint-daubed, and loafers were transparent or refurbished in blue velvet with platform soles. Speaking on the weddings from which the collection draws inspiration, Creative Director Jonny Johansson said: “I’m interested in the whole performance of it, the joyfulness, the dressing up, the kitschy-ness.”

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Courtesy of Loewe.

Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection fused the organic and the fabricated. Living plants grew on shoes and garments; the pieces literally merge with nature over time. Shapes, too, seem pared to their bare outlines then subject to natural processes of shrinking, inflation, tearing, wearing, and waxen perfection. Bombers, hoodies, parkas, jackets, coats, and sweatshirts are juxtaposed with polos, blousons, trackpants, and shorts, often sporting padded nappa or ozone-treated cotton which bestows an appearance of having been buried underground. Technological accessories like earphones, pen drives, and phone cases cluster amid chia plants and catnip in solid-toned neutrals of black, blue, ivory, and green. The pieces are accented with tote bags, hard-case bags, and grass-sprouting padded sneakers, offering a circular view of organic materials and fabricated visions.

AcneCelineFashion WeekHermesKenzoLoewemenswearParisParis Men Fashion Week

Recommended

Fashion |July 18, 2022

Saint Laurent Presents Existential Musings and a Mystical Desert Installation by Es Devlin for Menswear SS23

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