Paris Menswear unfolds for SS24
Throughout the week, fashion houses in Paris are introducing their Spring/Summer 2024 collections for men. Here’s the latest from Acne Studios, Berluti, Wales Bonner, BLUEMARBLE, BURC AKYOL, and EGONLABS.
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Acne Studios
Eccentric vacation styles inspired Acne Studios’s Spring/Summer 2024 Menswear collection, underscoring the idea that simplicity and classicism aren’t always the cooler option. Similar to the “Grand Tours” often taken across Europe by young men in past centuries—an affair that saw them returning home more cultured and knowledgeable—the maison took us on its own stylistic grand tour, intermingling elements new and old, as if one had accumulated a unique wardrobe from various stops in different locations. The result was a playful and unapologetic amalgam of cuts, textures, and influences, layered and worn in tandem with unsuspecting pairings. Well-loved denim was a staple (just as the perfect travel wardrobe includes one’s favorite denim pieces), alongside patchwork plaid shirts, knits with memorable patterns and details, pieces once foreign to the menswear oeuvre like skirts and wrapping tops, and no shortage of fun knickknacks and accessories, ranging from woven bracelets and monogram belt buckles to lanyard necklaces heavy with keys and objects. The collection also featured a collaboration with Per B. Sundberg, a Swedish glass artist and ceramicist whose work appeared as prints and jewelry.
Courtesy of EGONLAB.
EGONLAB
The eighth collection from EGONLAB exalted the privilege of choice: choosing one’s identity, one’s clothing, and whether or not to adhere to social norms. Along with the statement, “Nobody has to remain the person they were born; we can put ourselves together like a jigsaw,” the collection offered a box of puzzle pieces, waiting to be put together by the wearer as they please. This meant styles that embraced all forms of masculinity, even ones that might be considered feminine. Sartorial staples and iconic silhouettes from traditional wardrobes were recontextualized for this modern moment. Jackets were cropped, halter blouses with necktie embellishments were worn with clean-cut trousers, suiting was embellished with fur collars, and a selection of once-taboo silhouettes joined this new-age menswear oeuvre—like miniskirts, tiny shorts, off-the-shoulder blouses, and tops with plunging necklines. The collection was imagined in black, white, warm brown, and nude tones, and included an indulgent selection of glossy leather, silk, sheers, furs, and velvet.
Courtesy of Berluti.
Berluti
Surveying the landscape of modern life, Berluti’s latest collection aimed to serve the wearer through a balance in contrasting ideas like ease and exceptionality and individuality versus adaptability. This approach brought designs for the season that appeared professional and self-assured while being comfortable and wearable, leaving room for the wearer’s personality to shine through. A pared-down palette of shades like navy, gray, black, white, and brown supported the intention of mixing and matching a variety of materials and styles—meaning that just several pieces can be worn together in a variety of ways, and for many occasions. There were button-up shirt jackets and easy-fitted tailoring, collegiate knits and sporty pieces that could be styled with loose-cut trousers with pleats, finely crafted leather accessories, and a selection of styles that provided personality—like a pair of mustard-colored sneakers, a summer parka with an understated pattern, and a suite of button-up shirts with fun prints featuring various shoes and briefcases.
Courtesy of Wales Bonner.
Wales Bonner
Wales Bonner found inspiration in the enduring spirit of long-distance runners—particularly those from Kenya and Ethiopia—for its Spring/Summer 2024 menswear debuts, entitled “Marathon.” The soundtrack accompanying the runway show was not to be overlooked, with contributions from African artists like HaddinQo, DJ Boboss, and Hama setting a compelling mood likened to the subconscious rhythm one finds when running becomes an act of inspired movement. Unfolding to the beat of their sounds were designs that honored hand-making and generations-old techniques, featuring artisan-made macrame, hand-embroidered raffia, and woven Tibeb. Enhanced by these special details, the brand’s signature codes prevailed, combining classic shirting, sportswear (supported by an ongoing partnership with adidas Originals), tailoring, and touches of equestrian wear. Standout looks included a camel-colored suit with sporty red stripes down the trousers styled with a yellow knit, a hooded poncho in mini windowpane checks paired with athletic pants and sneakers, and a long dress-like piece that melded shirting with sportswear fabric styled with durable suede riding boots and a white leather shoulder bag.
Courtesy of BLUEMARBLE.
BLUEMARBLE
A youthful attitude looking to the skaters and surfers of California imbued the Spring/Summer 2024 runway show of BLUEMARBLE. Now in its fifth year, the house continued to focus on creating garments that support the wearer’s individuality—this season achieved through silhouettes rooted in somewhat classic styles but made unique through vivid prints, decorative embellishments, updates to form, and a spectrum of green, blue, yellow, and red hues. Commodious tailoring choices to a slightly baggy effect gave elevated shapes a laidback air, while casual styles like oversized cargo shorts, tees, and hoodies took on a certain freshness through juxtaposing prints, materials, and styling choices. Standout garments and details included shirting worn open with a logo belt fasten at the chest, silky pieces in psychedelic patterns, studded, knotted, and jeweled embellishments, and the selection of decorative thong sandals and wide-mouth skate sneakers that accompanied each look.
Courtesy of BURC AKYOL.
BURC AKYOL
Titled “Palm Gardens,” BURC AKYOL’s Collection 3 summer designs centered fluid forms and tailoring that blurred lines of men’s and womenswear, simply asking the question, “Why not?” The designer’s status as a French couturier of Turkish roots was beautifully epitomized in silhouettes combining the crisp lines of quintessential shapes (blazers, trousers, and trenches) with wrapping, draping, and gauzy trains reminiscent of cultural garments like the burka. Uncomplicated-yet-luxurious fabrications and a serious palette of black, navy, khaki, and brown allowed the silhouettes to remain the focal point, each imagined with understated, careful details like silky collars, patterned textural threads, extra sculptural shoulder points, and layers of sheer that floated regally. Standout looks included a take on a double-breasted jacket sans collar with a sheer black overlay, a trench coat that wrapped instead of buttoned featuring pointed details at the back, and a black silk top with a head covering and cap styled with harem trousers that split open at the front of each leg.
