Spring/Summer 2024 collection debuts in Paris
Now in Paris, brand are introducing new menswear collections for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. Here you’ll find highlights on the latest lines from Givenchy, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, AMIRI, Rhude, and RAINS.
Courtesy of Givenchy.
Givenchy
Givenchy’s latest collection sought out individuality through sophistication by removing dated virtues that belong to the past. Of particular importance for the maison’s new line was the schoolboy suit, with tailoring informed by contrary ideas of democracy and constraint. Pieces ranged from long tailored shorts paired with knits and Oxford button-ups to tuxedos in nonchalant cuts and two-piece sets with collegiate layering. Ultimately, the looks were still rooted in the gentleman’s wardrobe, but details and styling felt contemporary and interesting, like knit patterns with large circular holes, shrunken and cropped shirting, crystal and embroidered embellishments, and accessories like cross-body bags in technical materials, chunky boots, and orchid jewelry nodding to the brand’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy.
Courtesy of OWENSCORP.
Rick Owens
For the upcoming season, Rick Owens approached joy as a moral obligation in a world under increasing threat. Either in mourning or in determination to face life with elegance, the wearer’s new garments were imagined entirely in black. Head-turning silhouettes stole attention without the need for color as an aid, executed in lightweight wool, silk, and cotton faille. The season highlighted exaggerative shapes with sci-fi allure, featuring revealing sheers, high waistlines, cropped jackets, sculptural shoulders, and extra-long hems that often covered hands or dragged the ground. Looks featured long, slicked-back hair, chunky footwear (like boots reminiscent of leg splints), and the occasional belt or goggle-like shades.
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Dries Van Noten
Catching the wave of redefined masculinity, Dries Van Noten imposed a certain softness onto quintessential shapes. Suiting and outerwear shapes were neither tightly fitted nor oversized; knits and shirting held a certain fluidity, achieved through added length and soft textures; and several cuts of pants—like high-waisted with a belt, cargo pants, and a straight-legged loungewear styles—featured easy movement and fabrics in swinging proportions. Most noteworthy was the selection of colors and tactile materials, encompassing a rustic palette of lilac, olive, ink, rust, apricot, and ecru, and sensory textures from naturally-processed materials to furry details, draped silk, and shimmering metallics.
Courtesy of AMIRI.
AMIRI
AMIRI painted a tale of summers spent between Los Angeles and the south of France through garments that embraced a love for vintage. Looks that came from this approach resulted in retro-modish romance where Americana subcultures and a cool-kid attitude overcame dated notions. The color palette was most memorable, including aqua blue, mustard yellow, cream, and a range of blushy pinks, seen paired with patterns of checks, plaid, graphic waves, and stripes. Shirts were loose and featured unfastened buttons or tails half-tucked into cummerbunds; pants and shorts were wide-legged with pleats; and outerwear included boxy, zip-up collared shirt styles and tailored moto shapes. An arsenal of oversized sunglasses, berets, ascots, leather clutches, shoulder bags, long skinny neck scarves, and large floral brooches completed each look.
Courtesy of Rhude.
RHUDE
“A Dream Within a Dream” was the Spring/Summer 2024 collection theme, debuted by RHUDE. For it, Rhuigi Villaseñor pulled from his own dream of learning how to sail, as well as a range of other imagery—like secret agent movies, American billboards, and superheroes—to compile his own imagining of the new Americana. Central to the collection were elevated suits, tracksuits (paired together and seen as separates), and nautical motifs, which were executed with luxurious materials. The effect was a sort of new old-money attitude, exemplified through looks like a white set with navy track stripes and an upturned collar; a red double-breasted blazer with white trousers, and a knitted neck scarf; and a look featuring khaki shorts, a striped button-up, moccasins, and a lightweight overcoat.
Courtesy of RAINS.
RAINS
RAINS invited us to get “Drenched” for Spring/Summer 2024 through a collection that exemplified confidence and textile innovations in a continued examination of water. If the ethereal sound bath evocative of rain by Frederik Valentin wasn’t enough, then the soaking-wet-looking hair and makeup on models—by Gary Gill and Min Kim of Streeters, which included droplets of pearl rain on faces—immersed onlookers in the presentation of waterproof garments. Walking the runway were evolutions of the classic raincoat, reaching beyond simple jacket shapes. We saw ponchos in ruched textures, glossy pants, sets of cropped jackets and micro shorts, outerwear with long fringes, and more. All were imagined in several hues, like red, silvery blue, black, beige, and white.
