Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 Collections
During Paris Men’s Fashion Week, we took note of a selection of Spring/Summer 2024 collections that we’re still thinking about, including those by Hermès, Loewe, Kenzo, Marine Serre, AMI, and Sacai.
Photo by Villa Eugénie, courtesy of Hermès.
Hermès
Hermès embodied the tender strength of a summer breeze, warm days at the beach, and cooler nights filled with joy and simplicity. Weightlessness and ease of movement was achieved in mineral hues and boxy cuts with an architectural feel—through cropped shorts and shortened jackets, trousers with technical materials in classic cuts, and geometric details like airy gridded mesh and accenting patches and pockets. Looks were made special through details like pristine laser-cut patterns, belting with equestrian hardware or doubled straps, large leather bags (like a tote with playful graphics), and leather fisherman sandals. Standout ensembles included a loose-fitting printed shirt and matching belt bag with black shorts, cuffed trousers and a shirt with extra fabric at the neckline, paired with a patchwork shirt jacket, and a mesh button-up with pants in sportswear material, a double-stranded belt, and leather-and-metal accessories.
Courtesy of LOEWE.
LOEWE
A trio of dripping bronze water sculptures by Lynda Benglis sat centrally on the runway of LOEWE’s latest show, which hosted a collection that toyed with perspective by embracing the unexpected. Archetypes were updated through tweaks in form (like ultra-high waistlines with elongated legs) and tactile choices in fabrications—ranging from tweed, leather, and teddy fur to sparkling sequins, distressed brocade, and denim—that made even the most commonplace styles seem fresh. There were chunky, color-blocked knits with a homemade appearance, collared sweaters with sculptural additions, cut at the waist to pair with above-the-belly-button pants shapes; colorful argyles paired with disco ball sparkles, and tailoring with a slightly vintage feeling. Looks were styled with enlarged leather shoulder bags and the occasional pair of bug-eye shades covered in crystals.
Courtesy of Kenzo.
Kenzo
Kenzo’s Creative Director Nigo proposed a new kind of elegance for the Spring/Summer 2024 season—one that began with memories of the City Pop genre from his youth and melded Eastern and Western styles. On the Debilly footbridge with the Eiffel Tower as its backdrop, we saw these influences come together with a soundtrack by Cornelius, whose bespoke score reflected the designer’s love for the genre. Walking the runway were styles adapted from the quintessential European wardrobe, infused with Japanese influences—like collarless trench coats, kimono sleeves on blazers, suiting fashioned after Judo uniforms, and wide-legged pleated palazzo pants that tied at the waist. The collection featured recurring floral motifs and a graphic text by the artist Verdy, while the ensembles we saw embraced juxtapositions in styling elements and fabrications—like tailoring paired with sneakers, or leather cargo shorts and a chambray button-up seen worn with a beret.
Courtesy of Marine Serre.
Marine Serre
Entitled “Heartbeat,” Marine Serre’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was driven by a primal expression of love. A pulsating soundtrack expanding on Clair de Lune by Claude Debussy (a nod to the house’s crescent moon emblem) set an energetic tone for a runway cast of musicians and models—including Noah Cyrus, Teyana Taylor, Miguel, and Yseult—who danced down the runway in memorable silhouettes. Graphic prints, sculpted denim, crochets, patchworks, hibiscus prints, metallic leather, and the maison’ssignature crescent moon second-skin pieces were activated by movement on the runway, giving us the impression that wearing these pieces is asserts feelings of joy. Standout ensembles included a sculpted mini dress in plasticky prints worn by Taylor, who opened the show, a wrapped skirt and colorful crocheted top with an upcycled appeal, and a layered look in hibiscus print featuring a skort worn over boxers, a cropped button-up shirt, a printed duster, and a small black handbag.
Courtesy of AMI.
AMI
The Tennis Club de Paris set the stage for the introduction of AMI’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection for men and women. From within its raw, minimalist interiors, a collection of similar values was seen, starting with a visual oeuvre of 1990s simple dressing and ending with a collection of elegant essentials, filled with choices that can be mixed and matched. Soft earthy green, shades of gray, black, and neutrals ensured versatility, as did silhouettes that could be dressed up or down. The collection featured timeless shapes like crisp blazers, full trenches, and soft knits, as well as pieces that felt more in tune with the present moment, like sheer tees, sequined pants, tiny leather menswear shorts, and a selection of unisex handbags.
Courtesy of Sacai.
Sacai
Notions of the uniform and ideas of 1970s punk influenced Chitose Abe’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear designs for Sacai. This approach led to looks put together through head-to-toe styling and an understated elevation applied to streetwear styles. We saw pinstripe denim making up three-piece suits, large graphic island florals enlarged on pant and shirt sets, clean tailoring fabrications on roomy pullovers and oversized pants, and utilitarian work suits in khaki. Looks were accessorized with beaded necklaces, aviator sunglasses, thickly bunched white socks, and dress shoes with thick black soles.
