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Peruvian Designers Highlight Artisanal Textiles and Traditional Craftsmanship at Tranoï 2023

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From March 2—5, a group of eight Peruvian designers will present new womenswear collections at the Tranoï fashion tradeshow in Paris, coinciding with the Fall/Winter 2023 collections being introduced at Paris Fashion Week. There, Peru’s luxury craft techniques and acclaimed textiles are reinterpreted for the present moment by designers and brands including Ana G., Ascendia, Ayni, Perluchi, Fringe, Pampa, Kero Design, and Kinua, with support from the Peruvian Trade Office in Paris.

Ana G.

Courtesy of Ana G.

From Kinua, a husband-and-wife team comprised of Maira and Vincent Jimena, are designs focused on modern textiles and weaving techniques. Pulling inspiration from the traditions and landscapes of the Ayacucho region, they create tactilely interesting and beautifully woven garments that experiment with fibers and utilize natural dyes.

Kero Design’s fiber-centric focus creates everyday garments from materials like alpaca, silk, and merino wool, crafted by masters hailing from Puno and other regions—like the softest-looking cardigan duster in pink with a trim of yarn fringe.

In Ana G.’s designs, creative director Ana María Guiulfo conceptualizes vibrant, fun interpretations of her ancestral culture, brimming with emotion and artful energy. Effeminate shapes in natural fibers and recycled ones feature singular details and prints suggesting pre-Columbian cultures—like a floral set with ruffles and a look in multicolored stripes.

Pampa

Courtesy of Pampa.

And from Ayni (founded by Adriana Cachay and Laerke Skyum), handmade garments utilizing materials like alpaca and Pima cotton offer a timeless, sophisticated beauty with a global appeal. Each of the brand’s collections focus on a commitment to social and environmental responsibility and the preservation of tried-and-true crafting traditions.

There are sustainable pieces, as well, inspired by Andean art from Ascendia, like a long knit cardigan featuring a geometric motif); Perluchi’s eclecticism born from traditional artisanal practices, colorful, expressive textiles with a 1970s appeal from Lucy Barandíaran’s Fringe; and minimalistic, versatile silhouettes with an ethical approach presented by the label Pampa.

With an eye on innovation, sustainability, and creativity in emerging brands, the celebrated fashion event takes place in an intimate setting for others in the fashion space, including noteworthy buyers like Ssense, Moda Operandi, Le Bon Marché, Bloomingdales, Tomorrowland, Tessabit, and 10 Corso Como Seoul. Tranoï also features designers from France, Germany, Latvia, Japan, Italy, India, Kenya, Denmark, South Korea, Lebanon, and other countries, including the likes of Seafarer, Ticca, Utzon, Itoi, In Bed with You, Mafi Mafi, Lie, and Wundercamera Wardrobe.

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Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

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