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Whitewall is in Paris this week covering the Fall/Winter 2019 collections from Diogo Miranda, Luis Buchinho, and Faith Connexion.
For Fall/Winter 2019, Diogo Miranda imagined a season of classics with volume. Catherine Deneuve in Indochine (1992) served as inspiration for the collection, full of sophisticated silhouettes. The designer made use of taffeta to create exaggerated sleeves in contrast with fluid, pleated skirts. Miranda also employed nautical themes in stripes and chains, used in a feminine way, to create gold-fastened coats, paired with simple sailor pants.
Luis Buchinho referenced the uniform used by female aviator pioneers of the forties for this season. Luxurious leather blended with fake fur, flannel, knits and wool boucles were found in aviator overcoats and jackets in a variety of shapes. Clasp details complemented graphic geometries in matte and shine with dimpled leather. Buchinho blended easygoing looks with control, texture, and colors to create a season of breaking boundaries via strong attitudes.
Faith Connexion introduced its first full collection by Creative Director Nikola Vasari for Fall/Winter 2019. Bringing together influences from the Far East and the U.S.’s West Coast, the runway saw a mix of Asian streetwear and anime culture, with grunge and rock styles of the 1980s and 90s. A gesture of glam rock, found in mini dresses in lurex, was re-interpreted in abstract animal metallic prints of zebra and panther. The collection centered around an urban wardrobe of complete looks and separate styles alike.