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Gucci Equilibrium

PFW FW20: Chloé, Mulberry, and Kenzo

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Paris Fashion Week is underway, so we’re sharing details from the Fall/Winter 2020 collections by Chloé, Mullberry, and Kenzo.

Chloé evoked a performative spirit in an environment filled with gilded gold totems by sculptor Marion Verboom. Models paraded through the space wearing looks that rejected classical boundaries, as the voice of Marianne Faithfull crooned lines of poetry. For its latest line, creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi welcomed collaborator Rita Ackermann, whose art was translated into garments and accessories that illustrated the stories of a multitude of women. Their stories were told through looks like a sheer lace dress worn over a rose-colored body suit and a belted plaid dress with slits up the sides, styled with buckled loafers. In hues of chestnut, burnt sienna, and ochre, the silhouettes were also informed by masculine codes, seen in styles like the shirt dress, flared suit, hunting jacket, and wide denim cuts. Accessories of note included the slouchy Darryl hobo bag and long beaded necklaces, and delicate details—like beaded collars and cross-stitching—caught our eye.

Courtesy of Chloé.

Kenzo dove into a journey of history—inspired by the story of brand founder Kenzo Takada, infusing with memories of creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista. A nomadic spirit and a special attention to nature was shown through a series of transformative outerwear, like down jackets that double as sleeping bags and parkas reminiscent of wings. New prints (like a recurring tiger graphic and a camouflage made of rose petals) were seen, as was an array of Asian poetry that was applied to the meticulous European cuts. The result is a series of clean, detailed silhouettes with elements like asymmetrical collars, external leather pockets, and tiny zippered seams—seen in looks like a deep blue pilgrim-collared dress with long sleeves and a pleated hem, and a quilted jacket and oversized cargo pants in khaki. Each look was paired with a wide-brimmed floppy felt hat that fell over the eyes, and some even had thick veils that peeked out from under the brim.

Inspired by the strength and style of British women of the past, Mulberry approached femininity with a romantic take on the modern uniform. Classic cuts from past eras—like neck-tied blouses, double-breasted coats, and tailored sets—were brought up to present speed with chunky-soled combat boots, wide belts, and a selection of contemporary purses and handbags. We saw plaid in many forms (including long pleated skirts, slouched bucket hats, and capes with gold buttons), along with other prints like a navy and gold jacquard, floral embroidered tulle, and a blue medallion pattern. Highlight looks included a metallic jacquard pant suit, tied at the waist with an embroidered ribbon belt; a plaid A-line dress with a mock neck and beaded embellishments; and a sheer trapeze dress in red floral, worn with a black underlay and red mules that tied around the ankles.

Courtesy of Chloé.

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Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

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This week in Paris, Pharrell Williams presented his third collection for Louis Vuitton's men's collections, rooted in the Western wardrobe.
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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.