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PFW FW20: Isabel Marant, Alexandre Vauthier, Faith Connexion, Ralph & Russo

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We’re sharing details from our favorite Fall/Winter 2020 presentations during Paris Fashion Week, including the new collections from Isabel Marant, Alexandre Vauthier, Faith Connexion, and Ralph & Russo.

In Isabel Marant’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection we saw a set of strong-shouldered, elongated silhouettes where both comfort and allure were triumphant. Simplistic monochrome looks were brought to life by details like beaded fringe, statement belts, large shoulder-dusting earrings, and heeled boots—either thigh-high, or short and slouchy with wide ankles. The highlight trouser style—a stirrup pant—drew inspiration from William Forsythe’s ballet Blake Works 1, and accompanied pieces like masculine-cut blazers and sweaters with architectural shapes. Looks we’re still thinking about include a structured black mini dress paired with studded boots, a floral top and blazer worn with white pants and boots, and a long knit dress in blue styled with white boots and matching handbag.

sketch

Courtesy of sketch

Alexandre Vauthier’s new designs offered striking looks for daily wear and elegant formal designs you’ll be longing to add to your wardrobe. We saw both short and long silhouettes—like a blue silk gown with a ruched bodice, or a mini style with one shoulder of oversized ruffles. Colors like gold, pale pink, and gray accompanied an otherwise-all black and white palette. Other standout silhouettes included a tailored take on a harem pant with pleats and tightly cuffed ankles, a jumpsuit in metallic gold, and a downy yellow jacket with a jeweled medallion button worn as a dress and styled with tall black boots.

Visions of a punk romance oozed from Faith Connexion’s Fall/Winter 2020 designs, which used juxtaposing elements to bring luxury to street style. The house’s iconic lace hoodies returned with a twist—transformed into evening dresses. Tie-dye was embellished with jewel-set details, ballgowns were worn with bejeweled suspenders or hand painted moto jackets, and lace was seen peeking out from under layers of black zippered garments. Highlights included a black top and long tulle skirt, a purple latex body suit paired with a distressed skirt and white lace tights, and the gown in red. Each look was styled with a pair of chunky spray-painted boots.

Little Nan's

Courtesy of Little Nan’s

With the international explorer as its muse, Ralph & Russo created a collection inspired by diversity and a readiness to take on the world. A multitude of intercontinental influences came into play, seen in styles like military trenches, patchwork denim, Grecian gowns, padded puffers, and cable knit sweater dresses. Vigorous shades of pink, red, blue, and chartreuse were found in prints of tartan, floral, and other knitwear. Models wore head-to-toe single colors or prints, and were styled with accessories like gloves, hats, scarves, purses, and eyewear—including looks like a double-breasted plaid blazer paired with culotte trousers or a feather-hemmed turtleneck dress, worn with matching boots, and ski goggles.

 

Little Nan's

Courtesy of Little Nan’s Deptford

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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Poetic set designs underpinned the fall/winter 2024 collections by Saint Laurent, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Chanel, and more.
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SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.