PFW FW20: Loewe, Maison Margiela, Balmain, and Rick Owens

Paris Fashion Week is underway, so we’re sharing details from the Fall/Winter 2020 collections by Loewe, Maison Margiela, Balmain, and Rick Owens.

Feelings of optimism, excitement, and drama were shown in Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection, presented in a sleek environment of black and white. Great measures were unapologetically taken—in details like giant sleeves, feathery wigs, and full skirts that swung with each step. Varying textures were of note, seen in parings of cotton and wool, brocades and jacquard silks. Silhouettes with long hems, gathered seams, and high necklines alluded to historical styles—like a green and black dress with cap sleeves and an elongated waistline, and a belle-sleeved sweater that accentuated the form, worn over exaggerated harem pants with smocking details. Each look was paired with either a pair of white heels with a pearl-covered flower, loafers with a signature “L” letter, or a pair of elevated sneakers.

Balmain’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection reflected creative director Olivier Rousteing’s search for his lost family history, documented in the recent film Wonder Boy. Parallel to the project, the season’s designs explored heritage, tradition, and class. Established symbols of the upper-class—like equestrian dress, cloaks, velvet pieces, and silk scarf motifs—were updated for more current times, where fashion is no longer restricted to the wealthy. The return of brand staples (like a six-button blazer and the Jolie Madame silhouette) upheld the house’s codes, while a suite of audacious designs reflected the diversity of the world of today—seen in elements like armor-esque leather bodices, sharp shoulder cuts, and ample yards of draped fabric. The garments were presented in a setting reminiscent of a vast gallery with arching doorways, where we saw looks like a brown leather and white look composed of thigh-high slouchy boots, a mini skirt, a quilted jacket, and a matching throw; and a red blazer with black lapels and a plunging neckline, worn with a trailing skirt.

Inspired by a 1980s performance by Gary Numan, the latst Rick Owens collection, “Performa,” offered high fashion looks from a dystopian universe, doused in theatrics. We saw monstrous shoulders, spindly sleeves that extended well past the wearer’s fingertips, and intriguing silhouettes draped in giant puffer capes. The collection made its debut in a show of smoke, accompanied by a soundtrack of Numan’s Down in the Park. Looks were constructed from contrasting materials and textures, like chunky knits, reptilian leather, soft cotton, and thick metal accessories. Brought to life in hues like sky blue, rust, and gray, our three favorite looks were the structured coat with psychedelic stripes, the sweatshirt dress with a single pant leg, and the asymmetric strapless gown, worn with a matching glove and tall platform boots.

For Fall/Winter 2020, Maison Margiela’s mirrored runway paved the way for a collection of restoration and reawakening. The brand focused on a shared societal conscience, finding inspiration in ideas of history, heritage, and the emotional makeup of our societal identities. The collection featured a line of Recicla designs—which updated recycled vintage items into accessories like a series of Snatched bags and the 5AC handbag—and fused together a wide range of styles, materials, and silhouettes. Though elegant and elevated, the looks put forth an attitude of things found, repurposed, or handed down through time, like a plaid and striped coat in neutral hues with panels of red trailing down its front and the remnants of a coat collar and lapels worn like a scarf over a sheer top. Other details that caught our attention included the selection of Mary Jane heels with a hoof toe, the subtle rainbow palette, and unique accessories like a veil reminiscent of plastic packaging.