As we say farewell to Paris Fashion Week, we’re sharing the final Fall/Winter 2023 collections from Coperni, A.P.C., GmbH, Germanier, and Duran Lantink.
Coperni invoked fabulist Jean de la Fontaine’s imaginative 1668 tale of The Wolf and the Lamb for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Examining complex relationships between humans and technology in the 21s century, Coperni interweaved the iconography of the fairy tale into the latest collection in order to best illustrate the elusive quality of our world and ourselves. The notable characteristics of Little Red Riding Hood, capes and draping galore, were artfully layered into dresses, jackets, and tops as both seduction and protection. Delicate prints of wolves-turned-robots whimsically graced garments, while the weight of fabrics provided comfort as if beside a hearth while the reading of a fable unfurls. Metal woven bags were reminiscent of Miss Riding Hood’s ionic basket, embellished with a bit of youthful, techno magic, while innocent florals were redefined in origami shapes. A sweeping, child-like emoji theme weaved in and out of jewelry, handbags, and onto garments, juxtaposed with the wisdom of a locket necklace that echoed the iconic Swipe Bag.
The Attico debuted its newest collection, “Kick Your Game,” at THE ATTICO CLUB in Paris with a live performance from Caroline Polacheck and The Blessed Madonna in Paris during fashion week. Guests celebrated a suite of pieces that paid homage to musicians like Aaliyah, TLC, Mary J. Blige, and more, via restylings of signature cargo pants, crystal-encrusted denim, and jerseys. Patterning was camo, bandana paisley, faded, or ombré. Silhouettes were form-fitting, slung low, and completed with cutouts and chains. An emphasis on shine and shimmer was present in wedges, pumps, boots, and handbags.
Aptly titled, “Mom, I’m Going Out Tonight,” the A.P.C. Fall/Winter 2023 show joined forces with high school seniors from Lycée Diagonale in Paris to fully inspire and embrace individuality. Surrounded by punk graffiti created by the young artists themselves, and set to a lively soundtrack by DJ Myd, the electrifying presentation juxtaposed era-defining looks past, present, and future. Preppy trench coats, rugby polo shirts, and Butler jeans gave way to reinvisioned goth references in raw denim and slick black. New grunge took the spotlight in layered prints, bomber jackets, and granny cardigans. With a return to youth, its angst, passion, and joyful splendor, the brand relished in its 35th anniversary and raised a toast to daring ingenuity.
GmbH left the personal and the political aside for a pure pursuit of the form and texture of fashion with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Models garnered from the City Ballet Corp embodied the authentic lines of modern blazers, dresses, and trousers to the live beats of LABOUR. Shades of black, white, pink, and green, realized in satin, fur, wool, and patent leather, were impeccably tailored, draped cooly and calmly across the human form. Sensual moments of oversized bows, ruched tops, and shoulder baring shirts needed no explanation. Smart, boxy suits met with cascading jersey and velvet dresses, mirroring one another in confidence and pleasure. Over-the-knee boots and ankle boots in emerald green faux croc moved from one look to another gracefully. A new ASICS collaboration elevated looks, so that every step was one of contemporary luxury and authenticity in the journey ahead.
Germanier gave us a sneak peek into the jubilant future of fashion with the fantastical Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Models appeared as otherworldly goddesses in refreshing colors, shapes, and textures. Feathers of black, yellow, and violet spun from hair like celestial light waves, giving looks an ethereal presence. Neon feathers found their way onto mini skirts, winding around pants, shirt sleeves, and dresses. Day and night garments were one in the same in the form of sequined suits and mini cocktail dresses, spandex body suits, jeans and jean jackets presenting whimsical smiley faces. Metallics caught light in gowns, necklaces, and sculptural jackets. Beaded handbags, neon pumps, and lace-up boots grounded every look in angelic perfection.
Duran Lantink enveloped viewers in a visual and textural paradise with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Winter coats spotlit supple corduroy and shearling in shades of sporty navy and smooth, sunshine yellow. Puffy jackets were paired with shiny metallic shorts and heaven scent shearling boots. Luxe knit sweaters were carefully cropped, paired with high waisted velvet trousers donning gilded zippers. Knit dresses formed around the neck and protected the head, creating a new design of minimalist warmth. A long trench coat embellished with colorful graffiti was in direct dialogue with a sumptuously puffed take on the khaki trench. Experiments were luminous in asymmetrical lines, inverted shapes, re-envisioned and deconstructed shirts and dresses, projecting a sense of limitless originality.