Paris Fashion Week is in full swing, and we’re bringing you front and center for a look at the latest Fall/Winter 2023 collections from Paco Rabanne, Vaquera, ZEGNA & The Elder Statesman, Cecilie Bahnsen, Off-White, Georges Hobeika, and Givenchy.
Paco Rabanne Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
“Chasing Dreams” was the poignant theme underpinning the lustrous Paco Rabanne FW23 collection. Designer Julien Dossena paid distinct homage to the legendary friendship between Rabanne and avant-garde artist Salvador Dalí by way of surreal and transformative designs which highlighted the lush tones and textures of skin and fabric alike. With the brand’s latest looks, Dossena embarked on a fierce exploration of tactile creations—fuzzy knitwear, glasslike lurex, icy metal mesh, and warm leather ebbed and flowed from jacket, to dress, to skirt. The smoldering effects of gauzy mousseline, metallic skirts with the movement of swaying palm trees, and frozen-like celestial shrouds were otherworldly visions of female power and protection. Four paintings sourced from the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, notably The Shades of Night Descending (1931) and Sun-Table (1935), served as epic inspiration, taking the form of abstract panels in the presentation as well as placed directly into the designs themselves; Dali’s iconic jeweled pomegranate heart was the guiding force at the center of a flou dress, while miniature telephone earrings charismatically caught the light.
Courtesy of Vaquera.
Vaquera reframed Beyoncé’s iconic song lyrics, “you can be a sweet dream or a beautiful nightmare,” as a beacon of fearless, female inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Shrouded in decadent shades of black, white, and pink, models strutted down the runway confidently donning extravagant explorations in faux fur, denim, and leather. Pirate bras and hats were adventurously paired with voluminous satin shorts and trousers, finished off by thong stockings. Stocking caps kept the mystery alive, while snap harnesses, aviator pants, and enormous jackets alluded to the intense, magnificent journey ahead. Standout pieces like the fishnet catsuit and the Pierrot suit—a sheer gown in shining, milky white, dotted with oversized faux fur pom poms—were courageous celebrations of seduction and individuality.
Courtesy of ZEGNA and The Elder Statesman.
Premier Italian fashion house ZEGNA paired with Los Angeles-based lifestyle brand The Elder Statesman on a diverse showcase of Oasi Cashmere creations for an inspired Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Designed with the mantra “crafted for tomorrow,” the thoughtful partnership produced a collaging of identities with the utmost respect for mother nature, mastery of craftsmanship, and freedom of expression. ZEGNA’s Alessandro Sartori boldly reimagined the shapes, forms, and patterns of masculinity, while The Elder Statesman’s Bailey Hunter experimented with vibrant luxury and rich textures. Embracing an off-beat intelligence from head to toe, felt bucket hats, sun-worn flannels, cashmere button-down shirts, and brushed cashmere slip-ons were utterly wearable creations meant to take one from indoors to outdoors, and from work to play, in pure style and ease. A corduroy-like fabric graced skillfully designed modern suits in pleasing hues of lilac, aurora yellow, and bacca red, uniting youthful energy with time-honored wisdom in creations to be cherished for years, and generations, to come.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Cecile Bahnsen.
Cecile Bahnsen strategically placed guests at the center of her Fall/Winter 2023 collection within the grand Palais de Tokyo. Models in billowing pastel dresses softly brushed up against expectant viewers, nearly floating down the runway in oscillating shades of sky and cerulean blue, sunflower and lemon yellow, and blossoming pink tones, from sorbet to rose, to magenta. The intimate love letter to intuition, desire, and Paris itself was serenaded by singer-songwriter Suki. Lyrics and melodies of irresistible, dreamy pop flowed freely alongside angelic designs of re-sourced luxury fabrics in an inaugural partnership with LVMH-supported fabric resale platform Nona Source. New explorations in smocking and ruching played in perfect juxtaposition to Bahnsen’s signature Scandinavian black-and-white minimalism.
Off-White Fall/Winter 2023 collection
A loving homage to the late visionary Virgil Abloh, the Off-White Fall/Winter 2023 collection was ever-inspired by mystical forces of past lives while bravely forging a curious, romantic path ahead. Art and Image Director Ibrahim Kamara evoked a seductive, punk spirit with looks inspired by the West African motifs of his humble upbringing. He ardently embraced indigenous life and energy as seen in serene, sunset-hued head-to-toe knitwear, alongside skillfully braided details in hair, fabric, and accessories. In impeccable juxtaposition, science fiction elements were mod and forward-thinking in curvaceous sunglasses, deconstructed denim decorated with shifting moon-shapes, free-hanging, protective straps and buckles, and caps that gave way to cape-like sun protection. Grounded shades of blue, red, rust, and camouflage melded together in a nurturing, supernatural glow.
Courtesy of Georges Hobeika.
Georges Hobeika titled his Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection, “VAMPS”: a stunning tribute to elusive creatures of the night. From the ever-fascinating fantasy of vampires to the heroic hospital workers and security staff members that work tirelessly throughout the darkest hours, the maison investigated both our primal fears of and attraction to the compelling characters. In a kaleidoscopic presentation of nearly 100 different looks, reds and oranges of a smoldering sunset gave way to dusky violets and starry blues, eventually transforming to an inky gold and black utopia. Inclusive silhouettes evoked both earthly and fantastical delights, ranging from bomber jackets and embroidered denim, to enchanting gowns with sleek butterfly and chain embellishments. The brand revealed its absolute charm with shimmering vampire fang earrings which held an electrifying mystique.
Courtesy of Givenchy.
Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2023 runway presentation was a youthful exploration of modern glamour, paying the utmost respect to classic feminine lines and shapes while gallantly, and successfully, embracing plays on volume, tailoring, and freedom of movement. Artistic Director Matthew M. Williams echoed founder Hubert De Givenchy’s alluring tradition of chic dressing culture, reframing the custom today for his own close circle of empowered heroines. Elegant black, gray, and yellow suit jackets and coats offered both delicate and strong shoulders, nipped and unconstricted waists. Shown in an array of luxurious materials such as mohair, satin, and cashmere, the powerful wardrobe staples appeared sporty, professional, or perfect for a romantic evening adventure on the town. Shape-shifting layered looks carried into sumptuous sweats, exquisite bondage-inspired tops, floral patterned chainmail dresses, and gala-worthy gowns. From silky jersey, to luxe leather, to hammered satin, Givenchy gave voice and shape to every beguiling mode of the modern woman.
