As Paris Fashion Week comes to a momentous close, we’re sharing final debuts from the Fall/Winter 2023 collections of Nina Ricci, Alexandre Vauthier, Louis Vuitton, Dundas, Elie Saab, Sacai, and Valentino.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
Within the majestic walls of the Musée d’Orsay, the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2023 fashion show was an ode to je ne sais quoi—the elusive, timeless magic of French style. The legendary maison presented perfectly draped suit jackets and blazers, billowing trousers, posh sweater dresses, and scarves thrown across the neck, projecting the pure charisma echoed from Parisian street to cinema and back again. In rich hues of burgundy, black, and gray, looks were made utterly modern in a gallant play on proportions. Dresses were both luxuriously loose and fitted at the waist with slim leather belts that swung to the shin. Exposed shoulders, knees, and decolletage were casual yet precise, soft yet strong. A variation of immaculate handbags, ranging from a mini case with chain link handle to a surreal, doll-house-like purse, was an education on pure French charm.
Courtesy of Valentino.
Valentino embraced a youthful, punk spirit for its “Black Tie” Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Deconstructing formal attire, the maison championed subversion through high fashion and gave the ultimate voice to the sophisticated, seductive motif of the classic tie. Whether blending within a voluminous sweater dress, peeking out from a feathered coat, smartly finishing off a white shirt, or tucked confidently into a vest, the tie proved to be the ultimate accessory and point of interest. Garment proportions ebbed and flowed, from the oversized blazer paired with mini shorts to the white shirt in draping sleeves matched with an overflowing sequined skirt. Primary hues mixed with pastels and graphic prints were presented alongside monochromatic visions. The tuxedo was offered as a cropped reinvention, and the iconic Rockstud motif was revamped in handbags and unisex pumps for the Valentino punk in all of us.
Courtesy of Sacai.
“Everything in its right place” artfully defined the Sacai Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Founder and designer Chitose Abe allowed anticipation and imagination to intersect, producing an exquisite show of classic meets innovative. Expertly-tailored garments flowed freely across the body, transforming and shifting into surprising new shapes with every look. Variations on the horizontal and vertical were familiar yet avant-garde, especially when collaged with leather and fur. Platform boots set every chic dress, skirt, and coat sky-high. Intimate details—such as ribbon cuts on a faux fur jacket that transformed into a peplum, peeking chiffon in a polka-dot blouse, and a handbag strap as an artful aspect of a dress—were elegant reminders to discover the unexpected beauty in all things.
Courtesy of Nina Ricci.
As the new, forward-thinking Creative Director of Nina Ricci, Harris Reed paid glorious homage to the house’s lavish couture presentations of the 80s and 90s with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. In a dazzling celebration of femininity and romance in the city of love and light, models walked confidently in dramatic dresses and coats of faux fur, patent leather, and tailored denim. A bevy of polka dots, stripes, and cheetah prints was equally embellished with tulle, taffeta, and chantilly lace. In a full embrace of modern fluidity, looks cascaded from daytime sportswear to effervescent eveningwear with optimism, whimsy, and grace. Rounded out by full-brimmed hats and platform heels, the vibrant show was an ode to timeless glamor at every turn. In true artistic form, Reed was inspired by the surreal paintings of German artist Jeanine Brito, layering poetic, graphic prints of apples, doves, and flowers into the theatrical fall collection.
Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier.
Alexandre Vauthier explored edgy, understated elegance in form, pattern, and texture for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. In another play on ’80s fashion, a square-shouldered dress projected determination, flowing into a shapely bodice and ultra-mini polka-dot, ruffled skirt—paired with white sneakers for contemporary finesse. An oversized neon green coat, fit with a hood shrouded in chic thrill, was tantalizing alongside other sculptural works of art such as a metallic over-the-shoulder dress and silver Western-inspired boots. A softly studded jean jacket and leather moto jacket with matching leather pants appeared serene alongside mini dresses of hot pink tulle and deconstructed satin. Black patent leather gleamed in a jumpsuit and a decadent over-the-shoulder weekend bag. Exquisite tailoring was apparent in each gather and drape, ardently inviting every woman to keep the mystery alive.
Courtesy of Dundas.
The DUNDAS Fall 2023 collection was an extravagant tribute by designer Peter Dundas to his Norwegian roots. Opulent allusions to seafarer culture were present in naval-inspired hats, floor-length coats fit for a captain, and sailor’s jeans. Navy, red, and black soared down the runway in sheer dresses painted with foamy washes of velvet (anchored at the waist with delicate belts), shimmering mini iterations, and sweeping gowns. Inspired by recently unearthed photographs depicting an illustrious history of his family’s bond with the sea, Dundas invoked precious details such as intricate lingerie underpinnings, brass hardware, and classic tailoring into each and every garment. Navigating full-throttle into the future, Dundas minted the D24 Paris collection into an exclusive collection of “DUNDAS PFW 2023” NFTs—Proof of Attendance Protocols (PoAPs)—providing VIP access to the inspired show.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Elie Saab.
“A Floral Renaissance” set the scene for the Elie Saab Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection. A full bloom of luminous femininity, the house’s latest presentation explored every majestic facet of the modern woman. Colorful, artistic floral prints appeared like master paintings against black satin suit jackets, dresses, and trousers. Gowns paraded down the runway like graceful petals in the moonlight, swaying in romantic shades of ruby, forest green, and citrine. Fabric fanned away from the skin like mother nature’s sculptures, or caressed shoulders as a cape of sheer greenery. Three-dimensional florals decorated the neck or were embellished alongside sequins and tulle for a breathtaking effect. Plush velvet, rich crepe, and robust taffeta grazed cocktail dresses and jumpsuits alike. Monogrammed stilettos and plexi heels were the perfect addition for shapely stems.
