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For our final roundup of menswear collections presented in Paris last week, we’re sharing what we loved at Jil Sander, Loewe, Kenzo, and Cerruti 1881.
In its inaugural menswear presentation in Paris, Jil Sander embraced the traditional approach to the skill and craftsmanship needed to create a quality collection of menswear, while simultaneously bucking tradition. Focusing on progress for this season’s designs, the collection featured narrowed and geometric silhouette on a herringbone wood floor, in front of a grand fireplace and walls covered in batten molding. In solid colors, materials like wool, cotton, silk, and cashmere aided in the conscious connection between fashion and utility, creating an air of urban sensitivity. Highlights included the colorblock poncho-style collared shirts, and the navy workman-style suit worn with lace-up shoes.
Completed with a cotton sculpture by Franz Erhard Walther, Loewe presented its men’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection in a golden space that was almost as vibrant as the clothing itself. Sartorial tradition and team sports met, creating hats reminiscent of rugby headgear, jersey stripes reimagined as pants, and polos enlarged to reach the ankles. While silhouettes were ample, and layering was plenty, looks were given an elevated feel with the addition of accompanying outerwear and jackets. We loved the hounds tooth pants with a yellow sweatshirt, the textured navy cardigan with leather boots, and the cropped aviator jacket with an oversized knit sweater and leather pants adjoined with boots.
Kenzo presented a collection illustrating the life of the Tusán people, whose Chinese ancestors settled in Peru during the 19th century. Inspired by designer Humberto Leon’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage, the collection features a dramatic palette of color, which brings to life the layering of ethnic textiles with modern tactical garments, seen in looks like a robe-style wrap cardigan pared with khaki trousers, and a head-to-toe pink floral button up and pants, worn with a pink utility vest. While the colorful collection was certainly eye-catching, perhaps just as memorable the rainbow of Pablo César Amaringo Shuña artwork that engulfed the show space.
Relaxed tailoring, sophisticated sportswear, and an intergenerational attitude were at the heart of Cerruti 1881’s Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collection. Loose and comfortable silhouettes were refined with the addition of belts, and sports inspired garments like windbreakers took a sophisticated turn when worn under matching suits. The addition of bubbly, purple statues decorating the runway complemented the easygoing collection, providing a pop of color to the earthy palette. Delightful details included the glossy brown plaid overcoat, the shoulder bags, and athletic shoes accompanying many of the looks.