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This week, men’s Paris Fashion Week kicked off its men’s Fall/Winter 2019 presentations. Below, we’re highlighting details from some of the recent shows we can’t get off our mind.
For the Sandro man, Fall/Winter 2019 is a good season. The new collection is comprised of items between formalwear and casualwear, focused on both sharp tailoring and the nonchalance of Parisian roots. Three-button wool suits are seen over a turtleneck, herringbone and houndstooth check motifs are back, and raglan armholes and stonewashed denim make for an easygoing look. Aviator jackets are seen mixed between chunky hand-knit sweaters, and a corduroy jacket with shearling lining reminds us, for the better this time, it’s cold out there. Exciting new colors like electric green and vivid pink are added, too, remind us that, yes, while it is chilly, we can still have some sophisticated fun.
Tokyo-based designer Fumito Ganryu showed his eponymous unisex label’s second collection, focused on exploring the purpose of clothing in the 21st century for a “Generosity + X” audience. Simplifying design with tailoring and adjustable details, he focused on minimalism and comfort for versatility. Rolled-up trousers with drawstrings or waistbands are emphasized, as are other pieces with A-line shapes and sloped angles for a wider range of motion. Tops remain narrow, but with expandable backs and sleeves, and certain jackets are complete with ventilation openings. Cape-like jackets have openings for the arms and double-zip features in front, and scarves (that seem to be made of the same material, if not an extension of the actual piece) are seen topping puffer coats and roomy blazers. Bespoke shoes, in collaboration with Suicoke, are seen in sneaker styles and desert boots, complemented by neoprene inserts or double wedge soles.
For Berluti’s new collection, Creative Director Kris Van Assche was motivated by freedom. Rules and fashion codes were tossed to the side as he presented a contemporary wardrobe full of choice. Debuting at the Opéra Garnier, the brand showed a color palette of reds, blues, greens, and yellows, furthered by a dye-splattered marble print on silk shirts, nylon bags, and exotic leathers. As usual, tailoring is key, and we see its prominence on an all-encompassing cast of models—white, black, young, and old. A pink triple-breasted suit coat was seen under an oversized red zip-up hoodie, an emerald green ensemble of leather pants with front ankle zips, a dress shirt, and a suit jacket is paired with brown leather Western boots and futuristic aviator sunglasses. An orange overcoat is seen striking up the colors in the pants its paired with—a pattern of stripes in black, grey, yellow, orange, and white that are delicately broken up between patches of numbers like “18” and “95” and, of course, “BERLUTI.”