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Courtesy of LOEWE.

PFW Men’s FW20: LOEWE, Hermès, and Lanvin

We’re closing out Men’s Paris Fashion Week with a look at the Fall/Winter 2020-21 collections, presentations, and events.

On a runway that resembled a weathered dock, in a room tinted blue, LOEWE creative director Jonathan Anderson debuted a Fall/Winter 2020 collection that played with shape, texture, and optimism. Feathers were mixed with knits, satin, crystals, leather, and wool. Shorts morphed into skirts, and capes into coats. An eighties-style prom dress, all heart-shaped neckline and rabid ruching, appeared in a few looks, notably atop a Turtleneck with elongated sleeves. A dash of fantasy was at play with an otherwise work-ready button-up playing host to silhouettes of two geese, and paired with an oversized belt with large leather links. Looks were topped-off with bucket and Pilgrim-style hats, tinted colorful sunglasses, and voluminous bags.

Courtesy of LOEWE.

In Hermès Homme’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection, colors were rich in camel, hazelnut, chocolate, ebony, vanilla, clay, and charcoal. Outerwear was technical and functional: parkas had removable hoods, sweatshirts were reversible, pants had tightening straps, and necks could be zipped. Materials were rubberized and made water-repellent for the season. Patterns were graphic but not overbearing, while details of a sumptuous lining was revealed at a wrist, a pleat, or a closure. Pants were roomy, bags were oversized, and sweaters and shirts alike were blousy. The show finished with a suite of tuxedos and suits that didn’t shy away from revealing a little skin.

Lanvin’s Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection was presented at The Centre National de la Danse, France’s national dance center. Built in 1972, the Brutalist designed space was a fitting setting for a collection named after the legendary choreographer Merce Cunningham’s “Beach Birds” performance. Creative Director Bruno Sialelli found inspiration beyond dance as well, in the sea-faring comics of Corto Maltese, which we saw in powder blue fisherman’s coats, hand-painted raincoats, and sharks tooth necklaces. The skater scene of 1970s California was thrown in for a laidback vibe, found in short trousers, tapered angles, and super-wide shoes.

Courtesy of LOEWE.

 

 

Filippo Fior for Hermès.

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