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With Men’s Paris Fashion Week under way, we’re taking a look at the collections presented for Fall/Winter 2020 by OFF-WHITE, Issey Miyake, and JW Anderson.
Lit by a twinkling chandelier, a solo dance performance kicked off the men’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show of Virgil Abloh’s OFF-WHITE. An audience on all sides of an arena-style stage with saw models walking the perimeter of the floor to a soundtrack of a babbling brook and woodsy noises, before taking their place in the center to form a shadowed tableau behind a curtain. Neutral colors and bright hues like red, blue, green, and yellow made up a series of classic looks, updated with elements like tailored cut-outs, cinched details with hanging drawstrings, and prints featuring everyday objects like wrenches, wine bottles, and tire tread marks. Highlights included the oversized double-breasted suit worn with sneakers and a baseball cap, the brown leather monochrome look, and the cutout knitwear composed of the brand’s signature “X” logo.
Issey Miyake’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2020 presentation captivated its audience with a live musical performance and a set featuring a maze-like construction of large metal hoops. Following the concept that an outfit is simply an opportunity to improvise, the show doubled as an on-the-spot jam session, celebrating the collection’s endless mix-and-match potential. This season marked the return of the brand’s iconic plissé material on styles like oversized swinging blazers, long, open cardigans, and on several styles of trousers—all unique takes on wardrobe essentials. A bold palette was used both in solid-colored garments and to eye-catching prints, like an abstracted geometric design in black and green, or a splashed take on a color-block print. While the collection included more formal styles like a black tuxedo, most pieces maintained the potential to be dressed up or down.
JW Anderson’s show was held at Lafayette Anticipations in a space filled with black and white chairs and mannequins wearing masks of the late poet Arthur Rimbaud and felted sweaters featuring an artwork by David Wojnarowicz.. The Fall/Winter 2020 collection featured looks like a voluminous paisley overcoat with a triangular-cut hem and an ankle-length tunic in black. More traditionally feminine elements were updated for menswear, including pearl embellishments, V necklines, form-fitting tops, and hems of soft ruffles. Other standout details included the return of the oversized gold chain-link fastening, the structured silk scarves worn around the neck, and the loafers accompanying each look.