With Men’s Paris Fashion Week under way, we’re taking a look at the collections presented for Fall/Winter 2020 by brands like Rochas, Valentino, and Rhude.
Rochas dedicated its Fall/Winter 2020 collection to the artist and maker expressing himself through clothing. Presented in a hall of towering marble pillars, hints of poetry and romanticism transformed the designs from a selection of classic menswear silhouettes into a collection that illustrates the story of a person who creates his own world in all that he does. Warm colors like rose pink, brown, and burgundy accompanied traditional hues like gray, navy, and white. Looks were meticulously styled and composed, yet the wearer maintained a nonchalant feeling of cool, achieved through elements like oversized cuts and deep V-necks. Highlights included the subtle damask print, seen on pieces like sweaters, scarves, and robe-like cardigans; the plaid duster coats; and the selection of velvet suits, like a double-breasted version in pink.
Courtesy of Valentino.
Valentino followed the evolution of romanticism in its Fall/Winter 2020 designs, coming to a point where men no longer subscribe to templates of how they should look and dress. Once treated as a uniform in which to hide, the spirit of the tailored suit has been revamped with a delicate attention to detail, now serving as an outfit of individualism—seen in iterations like a wine-colored suit with a pop of green, or a selection of jackets with appliqued floral imagery by Inez and Vinoodh. Athletic styles and sartorial items were casually interspersed in looks like a pair of pressed trousers with a relaxed jogger silhouette, paired with a sweater, sneakers, and quilted coat; or a black suit worn under a hooded jacket with sporty buckle fastenings. The collection also featured a collaboration with Melanie Matranga, whose sentimental words like “bad lover” and “need need” were reimagined as large graphics covering shirts, denim jackets, and overcoats.
Rhude’s first Parisian runway was set within a sumo wrestling ring. The Fall/Winter 2020 collection was inspired by Japanese culture and a question of perspective—What is luxury? The series of refreshing takes on suits, vests, and cargo pants employed a range of earthy colors like black, camel, cream, and yellow. Silhouettes and details were ample and bold—like a pair of slim cut trousers with external layers of pockets on the sides, or a turtleneck puffer jacket in blue. Other eye-catching pieces included the textured overcoat with the woven rug print, the denim-leather combination pants, and the hybrid of eastern and western styles, like a coat that tied at the waist.
Courtesy of Valentino.
