PFW Men’s SS20: Hermès, Celine, and Issey Miyake

For Homme Plissè Issey Miyake we saw a collection of garments intended to liberate the men who wear them in “A Walk in the Park.” Based on the Issey Miyake’s study of pleating since 1988, the collection explored the technique as both a practical and aesthetic design element that creates beauty and ease of movement in clothing. Presented outdoors in a playful, celebratory setting, a rainbow spectrum created a cheerful palette for relaxed-fitting looks ranging from leisurely shorts and t-shirts, to dressier looks, like the blue blazer worn with a white under shirt and muted lime pants. Incorporated into nearly every look, a soft accordion pleat was seen on pieces like blazers, trousers, and button up shirts, as well as a ribbed knitwear iteration that mimicked the technique. The collection also featured a series of flowing gaucho-style pants and several takes on a kimono in blue, green, yellow, or red print.

Celine’s Spring/Summer 2020 menswear collection emitted serious rock ’n’ roll vibes. Each look was built around a pair of long, skinny pants with slightly belled bottoms—seen in light denim, pinstripes, black leather, and more—and complimented with a pair of black aviator sunglasses, and the shaggy hairstyles synonymous to the time. Neutral hues dominated most looks, with the inclusion of the occasional red leather jacket or colored scarf adding a flare of color. A multitude of jackets graced the collection, including varsity style, denim, leather, and blazers. Standout looks included the black suit worn with cream pointed toe boots, a flower in the lapel, and a skinny tie; and the pairing of leather pants and cream cardigan with snakeskin shoes and a boater hat.

The wearer of Hermès’ Spring/Summer 2020 menswear collection is sure to feel laidback and self-assured in the season’s lightweight, comfortable designs. In Paris, silk scarves became shirts and jackets, silhouettes were ample and nonchalant, and materials like technical canvas and cotton voile allowed for ease of movement, destined to remain agreeable in high temperatures. Colors like mint, sand, corn, tobacco, and bubblegum accompanied prints that alluded to equestrian plaid, nautical stripes, and racetrack checks, reminding us of the adventures best had in the warmer weather. Details we loved included the ascots tied at the neck, the series of simple sandals accompanying each look, and the selection of leather handbags, like a patchwork tote and a striped doctor’s bag.