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Jil Sander's SS20 menswear collection.
Jil Sander's SS20 menswear collection.
Kenzo's SS20 menswear collection
Photo by Mohamed Khalil.
Kenzo's SS20 menswear collection
Photo by Mohamed Khalil.
Raf Simons' SS20 menswear collection.
Raf Simons' SS20 menswear collection.
Rick Owens' SS20 menswear collection.
Rick Owens' SS20 menswear collection.
Kenzo's SS20 menswear collection
Photo by Mohamed Khalil.
Fashion

PFW Men’s SS20: Jil Sander, Kenzo, Raf Simons, and Rick Owens

By Pearl Fontaine

June 25, 2019

Today in Paris, the fashion shows debuting Spring/Summer 2020 menswear came to a close. So you don’t miss out, we’re sharing details on the new designs presented by Jil Sander, Kenzo, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, below.

KENZO’s Spring/Summer 2020 menswear designs were inspired by the Ama—a group of female divers from coastal Japan dating back over 2000 years. They are often referred to as modern day super heroes, or the last mermaids. Elements were borrowed from beachwear and technical diving gear, reimagined into pieces like string bags (similar to the pouches the Ama use to retrieve items under the sea), mesh slip-ons, and scuba-reminiscent sandals. Colors of coral, purple, aqua, and yellow reminded us of island life when seen on easy silhouettes like boxy suits, casual pants, and rubberized outerwear. Standout details included the Japanese-inspired prints and graphics on knit shorts and a blue sweater; and assorted accessories, like bandanas tied around the head, compasses hung at the neck, and coral-like jewelry.

Youthful and genderless are words one might use to describe Raf Simons’ new designs. Ideals of the typical men’s wardrobe have been tossed aside for Spring/Summer 2020, only making appearances out of their usual context—think dress blazers paired with shorts, graphic tees, raccoon tail key chains, and rubber rain boots. Collage-style t-shirts bore layers of what appeared to be built up paint; boxers worn as shorts were plastered with patches bearing sayings like “Stone(d) America.” Lab coats become jackets, and dresses—reminiscent of roomy frocks or graduation gowns—were worn regardless of stereotypes. The outcome? A wearable revolution, suggesting we put on our bodies the things that make us feel most ourselves.

Amply cut silhouettes paired with sharp tailoring and clean details made Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection fluid and concise. A primarily natural palette was occasionally cut with crisp colors like purple, black, or white, accompanying free-moving materials like cotton, viscose, and linen. Allusions were made to influences from elsewhere, as the Jil Sander wearer is a well-traveled man, yet no single time or place was made apparent. Highlights included the series of pajama-reminiscent looks, like the pants and shirt worn under a long, navy robe; the all-over black look with the white trim, worn with a white coat; and the leather color-blocked shirt, paired with white ankle grazing trousers, and a matching leather bag and shoes.

In response to the U.S. president’s current obsession with a border wall, Rick Owens’ new collection dove into a cultural exploration fueled by his own Mexican heritage. Upon first glance, one saw plunging necklines, platform boots, zipper-covered cargo pants, and no shortage of leather. Pieces like overcoats with knee-length tails, work suits undone to the waist, and black garments covered in waxy bandages suggested borrowed ideas from past punk periods. But upon further investigation, the subtle inclusion of imagery like the United Farm Workers Association logo (who will receive a portion of the collaboration’s proceeds) began to point towards the underlying inspiration—seen in the form of pieces like a chain link necklace and graphic shirts bearing the organization’s flag. The collection also featured collaborations with Champion, artist Thomas Houseago, who created a sculptural work for the presentation, as well as a capsule of garments echoing his art, and environmentally conscious footwear brand, Veja.

Jil SanderKenzoParis Fashion WeekRaf SimonsRick Owens

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