PFW SS20: Chloé, Camilla and Marc, and Rochas

A sense of energetic freedom defined Camilla and Marc’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection, which debuted in Paris’ Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Inspired by cofounder Camilla Freeman-Topper’s recent move to Los Angeles, the new designs employ the brand’s codes of classicism and minimalism, while embarking on an exploration outside of the systems and structures that confine us every day. Sharp, clean silhouettes took on a relaxed feeling with the addition of androgynous shapes—seen in looks like a pair of black trousers with chains at the pocket paired with a simple white top and a masculine blazer worn with loose-fitting leather trousers and chunky sandals. Statement sleeves were a recurring element we loved, including several takes on a bishop sleeve—like a long cotton dress with a cold shoulder, and a white blouse that tied at the neck. Other highlights included the light tweed romper, worn with thigh-high boots with open toes and the selection of floor-length silk dresses in printed florals.

Chloé declared its new collection an essential manifesto for the Chloé wearer, updating traditional feminine dress with a twist of romantic realism. A palette of delicate hues like laurel green, jasper, muted navy, lavender gray, and old rose graced a selection of garments that were masculine in fit, while upholding a sophisticated sensuality. Trousers were worn loose, hanging low around the hips; roomy blouses were left unfastened at the neck; and looks employed ample use of layering—both in sartorial technique and in pairings of multiple garments. Standout looks included the pink shirt dress with the pleated skirt, the pinstriped suit with cropped shorts instead of pants, and the layered floral dress in beige and white prints.

Dynamic, light, and vibrant, Rochas presented a collection of invigorated daywear for Spring/Summer 2020. Garments were shaped with generous folds and gathers in materials like leather, silk, and velvet, giving a nonchalant attitude to more elevated looks like an airy taupe dress that tied at the waist and neck, or a pair of cropped pants in olive brocade, worn with a matching jacket. The playful intermingling of colors saw pairings like poppy red and sunny yellow, peach and chartreuse, and blue and red, seen in a shimmering metallic A-line skirt worn with a button-up blouse and overcoat or a pair of simple, slouchy dress pants worn with a button up shirt with oversized sleeves. Pieces we’re still thinking about include the sheer dress in a floaty forest green material, the one-shouldered gown in black, and the silk army blouses.