PFW SS20: Saint Laurent, Marine Serre, and Faith Connexion

Yesterday in Paris, Saint Laurent pierced the sky—and the emotions of fashion patrons from all generations—with an unforgettable show. Over the past few years, its Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello, has turned the show into a must-see spectacle for Paris and the world, but this year was a uniting of those that love the brand regardless of place, time, or age. Opposite a sparkling Eiffel Tower, guests lined one side of a black catwalk in stadium seats, while countless spotlights punctured the stratosphere. The spirit of Rive Gauche was envisioned for Spring/Summer 2020, presented in an elegantly masculine-feminine way with immaculate tailoring. There were long, fluid dresses, sultry black tuxedos, embroideries from the 1970s, short and high boots at the knee, and more, but the show-stopper was the overall picture. With supermodel Naomi Campbell closing the show (one she’s walked in for over 30 years), Saint Laurent’s past and present merged for a layered, timeless silhouette.

Outside under a drizzle of rain, Marine Serre’s latest collection “Marée Noir” pulled on the strings of post-apocalyptic imagination. Mental and actual wars with climate change, mass extinction, and evolution were translated in an array of garments and accessories. Models of all ages and ethnicities took to the runway to show their past experiences—how they may be different, but are all linked in the old regime. Now out of hide-outs, they are confident but transformed. Uniforms, leather embossed pants, oily raincoats, and silk scarf dresses take us on a deep dive into the rebellion of the radical new world. Men that have seemingly darted from their homes are seen without trousers, but with a water bottle and a flashlight; women cover their faces with a sheer dress that can be pulled over their heads; nano backpacks are affixed to the bicep; and small swimming goggles are easy to access thanks to sunglass chains, worn around the neck. In this new community, generations, species, and genders are transforming, and they’re transforming fast.

At the regal Salon Marceau, on patterned wood lacquer floors and against a white backdrop, Faith Connexion’s presented its latest collection—an exploration of styles and eras. Here, Nikola Vasari, the brand’s first-ever Creative Director, celebrates exactly one year at the brand with Spring/Summer 2020 as his second collection. On the runway, we see a couture street fighter (reimagined in an array of stylish models) seeking urban conquest, inspired by life in France in the 1920s. Freedom and cultural independence, mixed with nostalgia of the 1970s, sets the brand out on a new journey. The first rebellious sequence we see communicating this are the embellished shirts and dresses—dazzling with details like a large “FC” surrounded by lightning bolts. From there, we saw parachute pants paired with heels, metal mesh fabric tops for men, and utilitarian workwear in an array of hues and patterns. For a look true to the mashup of eras, we recommend the short, dazzling dress under the oversized military green coat with vent-pockets