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PFW SS20: Sandro, Alexandre Vauthier, Lacoste, and GAUCHERE

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Paris Fashion Week has come to a close, so we’re reminiscing on the best details from the Spring/Summer 2020 presentations from brands like Sandro, Alexandre Vauthier, Lacoste, and GAUCHERE.

For Spring/Summer 2020, GAUCHERE found inspiration in the abstract forms and use of color of the Neo-Concrete art movement. Creating a wardrobe of reimagined staples for the working professional, the collection featured singular takes on everyday looks like pants and trouser pairings, suits, and dresses, as well as pieces that could easily be worn for more formal occasions. Classic styles like a masculine cut blazer were seen in iterations with open slits mid-sleeve, layered under pinstripe bustier tanks, and with tie fastenings around the upper torso. Pants included roomy pleated trousers, cropped capri-length with split seams, long skinny hems that extended down over the shoes, and a swinging skirt-like silhouette with a drop crotch and high waist. Looks we loved included a monochrome beige suit with the asymmetric jacket, a black silk shirt worn with yellow pants and red mesh shoes, and jeans paired with a black overcoat with side cutouts.

Courtesy of GAUCHERE.

The Sandro wearer had travel on her mind for the Spring/Summer 2020 season, but remained ultimately Parisian in her style. Conservative yet chic, the collection played with opposites, layering together playful knits and comfortable tailoring, or pairing office stripes with metallic sheened leather. Cuts were easy-moving and relaxed, featuring high waistlines and ankle grazing hems. The feminine form was lightly accentuated with cinched-in waists and juxtaposed with button-up shirts layered over tucked in tees, or tops and jackets with roomy shoulders. Looks were completed with simple accessories like a printed neck scarf, or sandals—like a chunky flat version decorated with beads, and a strappy block heel. Highlights included a white denim utility jumpsuit, a beige mini dress with the gathered details, and a seafoam green pants with the pleated pockets, worn with a blue and white striped shirt, and mustard colored knit top.

Lacoste presented its new designs outdoors at the Serres d’Auteuil greenhouses, unveiling a collection that married sports, style, and heritage. Nostalgia hit in the reworking of original tennis and golf styles—like the 1927 piqué polo shirt, which was updated for Spring/Summer 2020 with squared proportions and leather details. A retro palette of colors like burgundy, rust, yellow, blue, and forest green were seen on sport-centric garments including sweater vests, collared shirts, and pleated pants. The collection didn’t all belong on the playing field, however—swinging skirts, silky neck scarves, a rain pullover reimagined as a floor length dress added a sophisticated and feminine attitude. The collection also featured collaborations with Helen Kirkum, who upcycled sneakers from the previous season, turning them into handmade collaged footwear, and jeweler Rosh Mahtani, who transformed the house’s iconic crocodile into bracelets and brass pendants.

Courtesy of GAUCHERE.

 Alexandre Vauthier debuted a playful elegance and savoir-faire for Spring/Summer 2020. Black, white, pink, and a Tiffany blue graced a selection of formal suits and dresses, perfect for the wearer who looks up to Audrey Hepburn or Marilyn Monroe as her style icons. Dresses were formfitting with sweet, sensual embellishments—like a fluffy strapless cocktail dress with a black ribbon at the waist, or a glittering gathered wrap gown with exaggerated shoulders. The feminized tuxedo was seen in several iterations, including a black pinstripe set with a vest, and a retro 1970s-reminiscent suit with a frilled shirt and wide-lapelled coat. Other highlights were a black sequined jumpsuit, a halter dress with the neck scarf, and a plaid business suit with a cropped jacket and skirt. The collection also featured a limited-edition capsule of t-shirts, which depict cartoon characters dressed in the season’s more formal attire.

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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