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RTW SS20 Look 35 (1)

PFW SS20: Zadig & Voltaire, Ralph & Russo, Altuzarra, and Akris

Paris Fashion Week is underway, so we’re highlighting the best details from the Spring/Summer 2020 presentations from brands like Zadig & Voltaire, Ralph & Russo, Altuzarra, and Akris.

Zadig & Voltaire’s latest collection was spotlighted on a minimal runway at the Ritz, with all eyes on the sultry looks. This season is a special presentation, as designer Cecilia Bönström collaborated with supermodel Kate Moss for a wide range of looks. The union of the two women resulted in a line full of “Nocturne-Chic” style—nonchalant energy elevated by romantic, edgy, and contemporary details. Sweaters are made from recycled yarn, dresses are superimposed on trousers, denim appears to take on a vintage look, and light leather jackets top suits.  New accessories like cross-body bags, aviator sunglasses, and snakeskin waist belts were seen adorning several looks, as was the brand new Kate saddle bag.

Zadig & Voltaire. Courtesy of Zadig & Voltaire.

In a blush pink room winding with stair seating along the edges, Ralph & Russo presented its latest line. A pastel color palette led the way, with new tie-dye prints and psychedelic florals reimagined for suits, dresses, and hoodies. A contemporary bohemian attitude accentuated several looks, such as the elongated printed tuxedos, mini dresses with thigh-high boots, gowns paired with oversized smoking jackets, and ostrich feather dresses matching its coat in pattern. Furry slides, sunglasses (seemingly borrowed from the 1970s and put on chains), boxy bags, and crushed velvet waist belts were also seen spicing up some of the looks.

Earlier this year, Joseph Altuzarra celebrated ten years of his namesake label Altuzarra. In November, he and partner Seth Weissman are celebrating another milestone—the birth of their first child, a baby girl. For Spring/Summer 2020, the designer rewound time and tapped back into his childhood—one filled with the hobby of knitting, taught by his mother and grandmother. The new collection—presented in a home-like setting on a hardwood floor dotted with house plants—highlights that craft and the idea of heirlooms, touching upon the sweaters that were once knit for him. The ones presented in his new collection, though, were contemporary and fun. With simple black fabric straps and with a striped skirt, knitted tops now feel modern and sweet. Other looks were color-blocked and infused with a sense of funky sophistication, like long suit jackets over denim skirts with double button-down slit openings. Ribbed tanks were seen slim to the body, paired with pleated skirts that wrapped around the waist and hung down below the knee; suits were worn open without tops underneath, clasped by a chain button across. For his new chapter, a foray into parenthood, Altuzarra is reminding us that generational clothing, and the emotions behind craft, are still things to cherish and share.

Zadig & Voltaire. Courtesy of Zadig & Voltaire.

On a light wood runway, designer Albert Kriemler presented the latest Akris collection. A starting point with the trapezoidal Ai bag, which was first create by the brand 10 years ago. In the new collection, we see it reimagined in three silhouettes—one shopper, and two versions of a trapezoidal tote—paired with an array of new garments. Other creative inspirations tugged on artworks and images of the past by artist Antonio Calderara, such as the painting Pittura from 1960 (reworked as a pattern dress) and Figura di donna in guanti gialli from 1951 (inspiring gloves paired with modest dressing). In the new collection, we gravitated toward the details—slit sleeves on moto jackets, double handles on bags in cordage cervocalf, asymmetric cuts on kaftan dresses, and fringe fronts on pullovers.


Ralph & Russo. Courtesy of Ralph & Russo.



Ralph & Russo. Courtesy of Ralph & Russo.



Akris Courtesy of Akris.



Akris Courtesy of Akris.





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