As brands in Paris continue to present their new collections for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, we’re sharing the latest from Cecilie Bahnsen, Balmain, Acne Studios, and Meryll Rogge.
Courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen.
To introduce its designs for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, Cecilie Bahnsen shared a special presentation in collaboration with the musician known as Okay Kaya and the photographer Takashi Homma. Taking the form of an exhibition on view for Paris Fashion Week, “My Heart is Pounding,” intimately captured the new designs through a film installation, photo series, and sound installation. The designer continued pursuit of garments that celebrate the beauty of the everyday with the return of the brand’s signature full dress silhouettes and the occasional collared blouse and elongated trousers pairing. The usual selection of black and white was accented with monochrome looks in hues like aqua and scarlet, while beloved silhouettes were made anew with details like textural fabrications, gathered and doubled layers of material, and tiny drawstring bows.
Courtesy of Balmain.
Balmain celebrated 10 years with its Creative Director Olivier Rousteing, who opted to revisit some of his favorite looks for the season. Infusing other key sources of inspiration like Y2K cultural notes and a celebration of healing following a recent accident that left Rousteing painfully burned, the resulting silhouettes are sleek, sensual, and compelling. Kicking off the show was a palette of black and white that brought forth audacious looks like a blazer bodysuit worn sans pants and a suite of form-fitted pants and cropped tops that left sections of the wearer’s midriff, hips, and back bare. Gauze-like strips of fabric flowed from skirts and wrapped models’s bodies, even making up entire garments, referencing Rousteing’s experience with bandages and burns. As the show unfolded and the lighting changed, dramatic silhouettes came forth in exquisite materials and beading, like a short, golden fringed dress and a jumpsuit with a halter neckline.
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Crafting clothing that supports the exploration of identity, the Spring/Summer 2022 debut from Acne Studios was a beautiful collision of hyper futurism with a handcrafted historical aura. Giving us the feel of characters that might be found in an off-beat book of fairytales, we saw elongated, gauzy silhouettes and looks incorporating baroque prints, intricate knits and crochets, repurposed corsetry, and aged leather. An earthy, whimsical mood brought by colors like buttercup yellow, green, nude, and rust was juxtaposed by thick, platform footwear, large sunglasses, and strappy leather details. Looks we can’t get over include a sheer, printed dress with long sleeves and a split skirt closed at the front with ties and paired with a bonnet; a corset dress in green with a matching shrug, thick sandals, and a tiny knit-and-leather handbag; and a black trench in with swirling details in sections of brown leather fastened at the waist with an ornate buckle and paired with lace-up stockings and sandals.
Photo by by Jorre Janssens, courtesy of Meryll Rogge.
Belgian label Meryll Rogge embraced free-spirited, instinctual fashion for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, in a collection titled “All talk !” Acknowledging classics styles without pinpointing any one time or place, the lookws were an eclectic selection of prints, patterns, textures, and silhouettes that encouraged dressing without a need for explanation. Colors were bold, silhouettes were asymmetrical or made from thickly draped fabric, outerwear featured extra accent pockets and mismatched patterns. More utilitarian looks included a pair of pants in orange styled with a checked sweater vest and a printed blouse, a frayed denim shift dress with a cargo jacket and bright green tights, and a refreshed pair of jeans styled with a voluminous button-up with an enlarged bow at the neck. There were also styles fitted to more grandiose occasions, including a turquoise dress featuring an embroidered collar, rhinestone belt, and an opposing slip detail underneath, or a black double-breasted suit in ample proportions.
