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Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Courtesy of Thom Browne.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Courtesy of Valentino.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Fashion

PFW SS23: Thom Browne, Issey Miyake, Valentino, and More

By Erica Silverman

October 5, 2022

As Paris Fashion Week comes to a close, we’re bringing you the latest Spring/Summer 2023 collections from Thom Browne, Issey Miyake, Valentino, and Louis Vuitton.

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Courtesy of Thom Browne.

A belle of the ball named Cindy, and a transformation into her most authentic self by stepping into a lone, dazzling shoe, was the tale-as-old-as-time fantasy underpinning the Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2023 women’s collection. The revitalized story unfolded within the Palais Garnier, narrated by a prince named Charming in a duchess silk satin chesterfield dressing gown adorned with foliage in gold bullion and embroidery. Models in colorful silk taffeta opera coats, embellished with varsity numbers and paired with saddle shoes, danced across the stage. Cindy’s ever-present stepmother and stepsisters made a lively appearance in silk taffeta polka dot dresses and rocker wedge saddle shoes, with broad-shouldered oxford tailoring and birdcage veils. Their devious cat, Lucifer, was corseted in a tuxedo trompe l'oeil crop jacket with a satin mini skirt and jacket made ornate with ribbon yarn-ball embroidery. The trusty five mice ran about in off-the-shoulder mini dresses and mary jane flats with pom pom fascinators. Then the fairy godmothers appeared, donning pleated poodle skirts, silk taffeta bodysuits, and hand-knit jackets in tulle and satin. Cindy, and all, found Thom Browne to be a perfect fit.

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Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

Issey Miyake introduced “A Form That Breathes” with the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The presentation was sculptural, textural, and full of life. Invoking the freedom and care of the handmade, each new piece, in vibrant yet calming hues, was built to move. The TORSO series was firm yet flexible, draping the body in a single piece of transformative fabric. TORSO JUXTAPOSE was created from clay forms and embellished with elegant, contemporary prints. R COAT AND R SHIRT had uniquely molded silhouettes, with clean curves from shoulder to wrist, in water-repellent finishes and nylon stretch yarn. RESONANT SUIT PB paid homage to the cycles of our lives with circular designs and pleating technology in smartly sustainable fabrics. Knitwear took center stage; LINKAGE boasted bouncy and gracious dresses. ASSEMBLAGE experimented with three-dimensional and sheer masterpieces. NUDE was graphic–worn forwards or backward. Finally, accessories were SCULPTURES in their own right, using 3D scanners and brass/tin alloy for everyday grandeur.

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Courtesy of Valentino.

“Unboxing” and reveling in the traditionally unseen, was the declarative theme of Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Shapes and fabrics were geometric, monochrome, and minimalistic, allowing for freedom of choice, role-play, and imperfections. A flowing, monogrammed one-piece look in black and cream enveloped fingertips and extended into a dramatic cape. A sheer nude long sleeve shirt caressed the frame and was paired with buoyant feathered trousers. A calf-length shimmering jacket, with sunburst pleating, stood confident in cosmic blue. Slivers of skin spoke confidently from beneath a sheer black blouse adorned with yellow and green floral embroidery, which continued onto a matching mini skirt, opaque tights, and pumps. A shimmering, beaded army green tunic was cut and liberated at the hips, extending into decadent pants. Black was essential in the slip dress, the sheer strapless dress, and our favorite look of all: a romantic gown that was perfectly simple and infinitely profound.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection placed cool femininity, and its brilliant nuances, into the spotlight. Along with guest designer for the show’s scenography, Philippe Parrreno, the maison explored valued traditions, codes, and proportions, producing head-turning and thoroughly modern looks. Oversized and playful zippers and buckles were made seamless on trapeze leather dresses, fitted and studded jackets, and ethereal, sculptural vests and skirts. Black and silvery buckle imagery was uniquely printed onto textural suits, shirts, and collared mini-dresses. Patent leather bow details, black lace tights, and lug boots were paired with patchwork dresses, animal0inspired prints, and sheer negligee-inspired fabrics. Multicolored lace was layered in a girl meets grunge aesthetic. Soft and fetching powdery-hued coats were juxtaposed with deconstructed leather dresses, uber-long vests, and grown-up play dresses. A substantial handbag, replicating an idyllic chalet down to the finest detail, was made sleek with gold clasp and hardware. The joy of the dollhouse has come full circle.

Issey MiyakeLouis VuittonParis Fashion WeekSS23thom browneValentino

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