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Raf Simons presented his debut collection for Calvin Klein during New York Fashion Week. The show was held at the brand’s global headquarters, within an installation of an imagined America by artist Sterling Ruby. Ruby has collaborated with Simons before, but this time around seemed particularly fitting, given Ruby’s studio practice referencing craft and Americana.
The men’s and women’s collection, likewise, was utterly USA. “It reflects the environment,” said Simons. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes.”
It was the full scope of the country—from East Coast power suits to Western workwear.There was denim, quilting, plaids, florals, leather, patchwork, and Varsity-inspired knitwear. There were surprising moments of feathering, partially or fully covered in clear plastic (reminding us of our grandmother’s plastic-covered couch), and even a skirt made from a gold-tasseled American flag. Colors felt spirited but not too loud, paired with khaki, denim, grey, or navy.
Said Simons, “It’s the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West…all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty and emotion of America.”