Earlier this week, Saint Laurent debuted the second part of its fall/winter 2016 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week. Creative Director Hedi Slimane presented his glamorous nod to the eighties in the freshly restored Rue De L’Université, a 17th-century mansion selected to become Saint Laurent’s new couture house. Bright red lips and black-slicked hair marked a light grunge aesthetic across the collection, and the show featured no music – only the voice of Bénédicte de Ginestous, coolly announcing each look as she did for Yves Saint Laurent between 1977 and 2002.
Slimane eschewed the airy fabrics and embroidered florals prevalent this season, instead presenting simplified looks with daring silhouettes. Heavy leathers, furs, and foils characterized the collection, featuring a medley of punk jackets and bold cocktail dresses, with the occasional jumpsuit thrown into the mix. Tiny dresses flared at the waist and cut off at the hips in typical Slimane style, and chunky belts assertively tied the collection together. Standout pieces included a little black dress with a neckline ruffle, furled around one shoulder like an ink cloud; a high-necked leather dress with fur sleeves and pointed shoulders; a red minidress with one frilled gold sleeve; and a heart-shaped scarlet fur coat to end the show with a bang.
Berluti fall/winter 2017.Courtesy of Berluti.
