A vital source of inspiration in Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2022 collection was Paloma Picasso. She was the preliminary muse for YSL’s 1971 Scandal Collection, embodying a sense of freedom and inhibition that Vaccarello aimed to recreate this season.
Of the collection, he stated, “For a long time, I wanted to transpose this meeting between Paloma Picasso and Yves Saint Laurent, whose importance few realize in the designer’s creative journey. It is a moment to which I am sensitive as a designer, because for me it is the defining moment when Saint Laurent’s fashion creativity became a style.”

The collection featured oversized blazers and exaggerated shoulders, with standout looks including slick jumpsuits. It was feminine, while emphasizing masculine shapes that have been embraced by Instagram culture, tailoring them to the body and pairing with column skirts or figure-hugging pants. Referencing the Scandal Collection’s reflection of the rise in feminism which led to more women being open with highlighting their own shape—Spring/Summer 2022 included close-cut jumpsuits decorated in bright flowers and Picasso-approved red. The designs were radical, clashing even, but representative of yet another shift in women dressing for themselves.




