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We’re continuing our look at Paris Fashion Week, focused on new Spring/Summer 2019 collections from powerhouses like Saint Lauren, Rochas, and Chloe.
At the Trocadéro, just across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent showed its dynamic collection—an offering true to designer Anthony Vaccarello’s emphasis on short, sensual, and striking looks. Essentially walking through a shallow pool of water on top of a runway lined with white palm trees, models expressed individuality for the house. Different decades were seen exemplified in various looks, such as with 1970s-style masculine-meets-feminine suits and jackets. Tailoring from the 1960s was reimagined with jersey, twisting cultures and decades for a new approach to couture design. Hats, adorned with long tassle-ended ropes were tied around the neck; silver headbands were worn pushing the hair down on the forehead instead of the opposite; tops were unbuttoned to a daringly-low point, paired with long tuxedo jackets; sleeveless vests were donned with a baroque print and connected across the chest by an eccentric chain closure; tuxedo trousers were buttoned up high above the waist, paired with snakeskin boots and a transparent, shimmering top; and dresses—albeit still short and sexy, trimmed with glittering details of sequins, crystals, and velvet—were buttoned-up, with prairie dress-like ruffles, bows, buttons, and pockets.
The focus of the Spring/Summer 2019 Rochas collection was on shape, with volume and structure playing equal parts in a well-told story. On a polished concrete runway, models strutted an array of looks that had our eyes leading: down a trail of subtle ruffles to dramatic bottom folds; around ballooned shoulders and dress bottoms; and to the center of burnout sequins skirts and feather-accented hems. Materials also played a huge part (pony hair, chiffon, sequins, satin, silk duchesse, heavyweight faille, velvet, ostrich feathers) and prints (zebra, leopard) both in traditional colors and in bright yellow, grey, and black. Illuminating with vibrancy and a re-established sense of business wear (hello, new suits and austere trousers with Japanese cuts), the impactful collection was full of dramatic shapes, expert structure, and plenty of fun.
Modern-day hippies were seen walking the Chloé show—a presentation from designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi that was meant to evoke a certain type of revival for today. A journey—under the sun and close to earth—was complemented by the Chloé girl’s love for reflection, culture, and progress. That journey is heightened by a handful of colorful, detailed prints, and accessories like large earrings, plenty of rope belts, and sandals. We saw a long, single-sleeve dress paired with loose-hanging waist belts, ankle and wrist bracelets, and toe rings. A long coat, with sleeves past the fingertips, made way for a cropped, matching outfit underneath. Her femininity is free-spirited, heightened by her garments’ ancient textures: carpet jacquard, scarf silks, ikat, and plissé mousseline. Wrapped and layered, bias-cut and seemingly in chapters, shades of sunset orange, terracotta, and faded blues radiate her emotion. For accessories, we saw: the Tess shoulder bag in suede; shoes like buckled flats and graphic mules; and an updated Marcie in crocodile embossed leather for its 10th anniversary.