Yesterday on Venice’s Isola Della Certosa, Doug Aitken’s living artwork Green Lens was the chosen destination for Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear presentation, which debuted via livestream. The kaleidoscopic interior of the architectural installation—which was commissioned by the house’s Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello for the occasion—houses an air of mystery within its mirrored walls, along with a collection of wild, green vegetation.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Visitors on the island (which will continue to present the installation and an accompanying roster of programming through July 30) can bear witness to a time and space where nature and the manmade coexist as one—a concept which may be necessary to ensure the thriving of humanity and a lens through which the house conceived its latest collection.
Captured weaving in and out of the walls of Green Lens, the sensual threads of the new Saint Laurent Men’s designs were bathed in the light of a setting sun reflected off the surface of the artwork and the glistening surrounding water. Centering tops-and-trousers pairings, there was a cast of models styled with shades, slicked-back hair, and hints of makeup, harnessing the house’s easy-going chicness in a way that made breaking down menswear stereotypes appear simple. While the looks were well within house codes, many styles incorporated a certain softness that once might have been avoided in menswear.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
There were slim-cut pants and pleated trousers, some slung low and worn with open shirts, others belted at the waist and styled with vests and blazers. Styles recalling womenswear silhouettes and historic dress—like eyelet lace button-ups with ruffles at the shoulders, painter’s shirts with billowing sleeves, and tees with lowcut necklines that left the chest exposed—were painted in deep, mysterious tones and a spread of black. There were also classic suit pairings like a set in royal purple jacquard or a pair of cropped slacks with a short checked tuxedo jacket.
Standout ensembles included a pair of black jeans and a long, silky robe that tied in front and billowed out behind, a delicate cotton blouse with pleating and lace details worn with high-waisted trousers, and a sheer top with a frilled collar layered under a bright floral bomber with beading. Each look was completed with details like dainty layered necklaces, ribbons tied at the neck, heeled platform boots, belts with silver embellishments, and pointed-toe shoes, which laced or buckled up the sides.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
