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Last night, guests of Saint Laurent travelled to Liberty State Park in New Jersey by ferry for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2019 presentation. With Manhattan serving as the backdrop, the show’s set consisted of open-air scaffolding and a marble floor—an industrial, yet indulgent, scene for those in attendance.
After two years of being in the house, creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s inaugural men’s presentation was a translation of the macadam cowboy—think horseback trotting through crushed stone streets, once popular in the 1820s—and a reinterpretation of the house’s iconic staples, like saharienne jackets, now shortened and paired with high-waisted trousers. Vaccarello carries predecessor Hedi Slimane’s vision to create looks that Yves Saint Laurent would wear, but today, with contemporary twists. High-waisted trousers and pointed shoes, sure, but black jeans, halo hats, vests, sleeveless shirts, and skinny ties, too.
For the show, we saw a wide range of looks: sharp collars and long hems on jackets, tapered at the waist with skinny waist belts; slim trousers, tucked in tops, and long scarves paired with pointed shoes and a hat; slick silver pants, a button-up shirt to the collar, and an arm stacked with bracelets; and accessories like necklaces, thin neck scarves, and sunglasses.
A handful of female models were mixed into the line-up, too, dressed in modified pairings of what most of the men were seen wearing—loose-fitting tops, black jeans, and tuxedo jackets. Embroidery, texture, and small but dramatic details, however, were a big highlight. Red tassels hung from a sheer, sleeveless top; a neck bandana, fully covered in sequins, glitzed the urban cowboy; and a small daisy lapel pin created a dainty touch for the all-black dress code known well to the brand loyal wearers.
The last 20-or-so looks paraded down the runway, with a bare chest, silver body paint, and black trousers serving as the base for silver and black neck accessories to shine.