Saint Laurent SS24 Redefines Masculinity in Berlin

Three days ago in Berlin, Saint Laurent revealed its Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection surrounded by the glass walls of Neue Nationalgalerie. The last major project designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, the cavernous, cool-hued interiors of the 1968 Modernist museum was paired with a dramatic and shadowed lighting concept, setting an impactful ambiance for the maison’s collection of tuxedo-centric silhouettes.

An era of redefined masculinity—first suggested in the house’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear designs—saw the return of the signature mostly-black palette and statement shoulder tailoring, twisted for the contemporary moment through elements that might be considered quintessentially feminine. Accompanying staples of the season—including spacious jackets, slim-fit tuxedo pants, and high-waisted trousers—were garments with sweeping drapery, halter neck and sleeveless tops, plunging necklines, and one-shouldered shapes, imagined in luxurious gathers of satiny fabrics, sheer polka dots, and even a leopard print.

Seen sweeping confidently through the interiors of van der Rohe’s architectural masterpiece, looks we’re still thinking of include a boxy blazer with subtly striped pants and a long, silky neck bow that trailed off one shoulder like a train; a power suit with gray pants, a navy pinstripe blazer, and tank in deep sapphire silk that left the chest completely bare; a pants-and-blouse ensemble featuring a sheer long-sleeved top that fell off of one shoulder; and a classic take on a tuxedo featuring black pants and jacket with a white shirt and bowtie. Looks were styled concisely with pointed-toe boots with a slight block heel in glossy black leather, classic belts with squared buckles, and aviator sunglasses.