On Tuesday night in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello updated the definition of a Saint Laurent woman: made in the image of Yves himself, she is both professional and opulent. She has “an attraction to danger and pleasure,” as the show notes say, which she “proudly owns in her modern agency.”
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Honoring Yves Saint Laurent in SS25
Vaccarello was explicit in his self-referential inspiration for the label’s Summer 2025 collection. Models debuted eveningwear and androgynous suits while walking down a blue oval runway, nodding to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Marrakech gardens. Some of the looks recalled how the designer used to dress, too. Oversized jackets were worn over sharp blazers, and double-breasted suits were fluid as they moved. Vaccarello doubled down on what writer Emily Sundberg has coined the “corporate fetish,” channeling 1980s-era Wall Street on more modern terms.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
An Unwavering Commitment to Sophisticated, Feminine Eveningwear
Then there was the second half of the show, a prim yet chaotic ode to YSL’s signature eveningwear. Tailored jackets gave way to luxurious ruffled skirts and skin-tight dresses lined with lace. Looks were draped and embroidered, with delicate underlays of silk and suede creating unexpected silhouettes and stark contrasts in texture; technicolor shades of aquamarine and gold upped the ante of an already bold collection. The result was a shimmering, sophisticated vision of what a Saint Laurent woman can be.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Courtesy of Saint Laurent.
Honoring the Women in the Saint Laurent Universe
The show took place in the historic open-air courtyard of Saint Laurent’s French headquarters, outfitted with a gold-rimmed rotunda. Notably, each of the 49 looks was named after women who have been important in the Saint Laurent universe. Some were in the front row, such as Betty Catroux and Carla Bruni, while others—the likes of Katoucha, Bettina, Dovima, and Iman—had to be imagined. Notably, the show also marked Bella Hadid’s return to the runway after a two-year hiatus.
