Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane seems to be taking a romp through rock-and-roll history, referencing another decade with each new season. When he first came on the scene the 60s were it. 90s grunge made an appearance next, and fall 2014 brought us back to the 60s again. Then came the early 70s, and now, for his fall 2015 show, he’s plopped us right in the middle of the punk-meets-prom 80s.
He drove the point home right from the first look, which featured a flouncy ballerina pink tulle confection, a charcoal blazer, big chain choker, fishnets, and black leather boots. The makeup was classic iconoclast: hard black liner that framed rather than lined the eyes and matte red lips. Hemlines were short, and stockings were ripped, run or fishnet, or often all three. Leather and glitter appeared in equal measure, and as always, the palette was almost entirely black and white, apart from a few loud furs and precious dresses.
Hermès’ fall/winter 2017-18
Photo by by Jean-François José
A particularly outlandish look featured a boxy coat in stripes of different types and tones of fur, which was worn with a studded choker, black leather mini, and open weave sweater. For the faint of heart or the skeptics (of which Slimane has his fair share), there are plenty of beautiful basics hidden in the milieu: perfect black bombers and moto-jackets, long-line wool blazers and crisp black trousers punctuated many ensembles. Look a little closer and you’re sure to find something you like.
