Did We Just Witness the Future of Menswear? 8 Paris Collections Say Yes

After one of the season‘s most demanding fashion weeks, Paris Men’s Fashion Week has come to a close, with summer holidays finally on the horizon. Across runways, Spring/Summer 2027 emerged as a celebration of personal style, where organza, sheer layers, technical innovation, and relaxed tailoring reflected a new approach to dressing. 

Willy Chavarria elevated his Chicano-inspired aesthetic through refined craftsmanship, while sacai reinvented wardrobe classics through hybrid construction. Rick Owens engineered garments for a warming future with performance-driven technology,Isabel Marant embraced the spirit of the well-traveled wardrobe, and OUR LEGACY paid tribute to Britain’s rich tapestry of subcultures. Together, the collections suggest a season less defined by a single trend than by individuality, craftsmanship, and clothes that tell a personal story.

Willy Chavarria’s Communal Spirit

Presented inside the iconic Espace Niemeyer, headquarters of the French Communist Party, Willy Chavarria‘s latest collection, “Comunión,” explored the power of community, resilience, and finding joy amid uncertainty. Rather than relying on spectacle, the presentation centered on clothing as a vehicle for optimism, reminding viewers that beauty itself can be an act of hope.

Rich reds, lilacs, celestial blues, copper greens, and soft pinks infused the collection with warmth and confidence. Flowing pleated dresses, cascading lace gowns, floral motifs, and sheer trench coats softened Chavarria’s signature tailoring, while heat-pressed vinyl flowers brought a whimsical, couture-like finish. Relaxed suiting appeared alongside schoolboy-inspired shorts, structured knitwear, and fluid silk dresses layered with boxer shorts peeking beneath pencil skirts, balancing toughness with tenderness. Also debuting on the runway was the new UGG® x Willy Chavarria collaboration, introducing five footwear styles ahead of their September launch.

For Spring/Summer 2027, Chavarria continues to evolve his Chicano-inspired aesthetic through elevated craftsmanship and expressive color, proving that strength and softness can exist side by side. “There is a sense of joy in seeing the light,” the designer said. “We realize that history has shown us what power we hold when we come together to do good.” 

sacai “THE NEW CLASSICS”

Titled “THE NEW CLASSICS,” sacai proposed a fresh approach to menswear by reimagining the wardrobe’s most familiar staples. Rather than rejecting tradition, Chitose Abe collides conservative tailoring with contemporary design, transforming classic garments into hybrid pieces that feel dynamic and unexpected. Abe’s signature language of hybridization runs throughout the collection. Technical fabrics meet traditional suiting, while familiar silhouettes are interrupted by unexpected construction and asymmetrical detailing. A classic Brooks Brothers-style blazer is spliced with sacai’s distinctive layering and reworked neckline, freeing the preppy staple from its historical associations and turning it into a fluid, modern statement. The result is tailoring that embraces movement rather than rigidity.

The same philosophy extends to sacai’s latest collaboration with BIRKENSTOCK. Two iconic footwear styles are reimagined with sculptural proportions and paired with matching suede utility bags. Together, the collection demonstrates how experimentation and craftsmanship can reinvent even the most enduring classics.

Rick Owens Engineers the Future

One of the most anticipated collections of the season, Rick Owens‘ Spring/Summer 2027 presentation, created in collaboration with adidas, balanced the designer’s signature monochromatic aesthetic with technical innovation. Rooted in a restrained palette of black, beige, and flesh tones, the collection explored how performance technology can respond to an increasingly warmer climate.

At its core was adidas’ Climacool system, integrated into inflated jackets and shorts equipped with interior fans that, when paired with a cooling vest, create a personal air-conditioning system designed to regulate runners’ body temperatures before competition. The concept reflects Owens’ ongoing interest in pushing fashion toward functional solutions for contemporary environmental challenges.

Elsewhere, recycled technical nylons, flesh-toned leather, and nude girdle fabrics shaped streamlined tracksuits and sharp tailoring. Structured coats with removable epaulettes evoked military and aviation uniforms, while compact silk crepe suiting contrasted with sheer tanks trimmed in hand-piped latex, adding a subtle 1920s lingerie influence. The result is a collection where Owens’ architectural language meets performance-driven innovation without sacrificing its unmistakable edge.

OUR LEGACY’s Love Letter to British Style

Titled “Tea for Two,” OUR LEGACY‘s latest collection serves as creative director Cristopher Nying‘s Anglophilic love letter to Britain, recalling his first visits to London in the early 2000s. Drawing from the city’s layered subcultures—from postwar tailoring to turn-of-the-millennium street style—the collection documents British dress through an authentic, street-level lens, with models wandering, lingering, and inhabiting their own characters.

Classic British tailoring is reimagined through OUR LEGACY’s relaxed sensibility. Fluid military trench coats feature modular slashed backs, while slouchy Edwardian-inspired double-breasted coats are paired with casual bombers and crisp poplin work shirts. Corsetry, romantic Baroque ruffles, frayed edges, and heritage upholstery jacquards introduce texture and history, while Harrington jackets and holster vests subtly reinforce the collection’s anti-establishment spirit. A restrained palette of black, white, and grey is punctuated by flashes of red, adding quiet intensity throughout.

A collaboration with Fred Perry is seamlessly woven into the collection, reinforcing its exploration of Britain’s rich cultural and sartorial history, where heritage continually evolves through new generations.

Isabel Marant’s Well-Traveled Wardrobe

For Spring/Summer 2027, Creative Director Kim Bekker looked to the traveler as the foundation of the Isabel Marant man. Rooted in the house’s enduring bohemian spirit, the collection imagines a wardrobe built over time—assembled from journeys, memories, and pieces collected along the way. “He has been everywhere and picked up pieces from here and there as he has travelled all around the globe,” Bekker explains. “They’re pieces which have lasted—and which will always be relevant.”

That philosophy translates into a wardrobe that feels deeply personal rather than trend-driven. Tailoring remains relaxed yet close to the body, while sand, rust, brown, green, chambray blue, and denim create an earthy palette with subtle athletic influences. Crumpled shirt jackets, weathered leather outerwear, tangled cord belts, roomy utility bags, and cozy knitwear evoke garments that have been worn, repaired, and treasured. The debut of the new TK sneaker and heirloom-inspired jewelry further reinforces the collection’s effortless, well-traveled spirit.

As Bekker notes, “Everything in the collection feels like it was pulled from real life,” making individuality the collection’s defining statement.

MAM Builds a Fashion Universe

For its first runway presentation, MAM looked beyond fashion, unveiling an immersive performance inspired by galactic civilizations and universal archetypes. Rather than presenting a traditional collection, the brand introduced an interconnected universe centered on GAIA, the singular origin from which six civilizations expand. Presented at SOLUM Paris, a chrome-finished GAIA sculpture anchored the runway, transforming the space into a futuristic temple suspended between ancestry and the unknown.

Conceived as a progressive awakening, the performance moved through six interconnected civilizations, each representing a distinct energetic center within the MAM universe. ANDROMEDANS explored the origins of civilization and the first manifestation of GAIA, while ARCTURIAN embodied emotional connection and collective energy. CURIAN, developed in collaboration with CUPRA, represented precision, determination, and forward momentum. ATLANTAS celebrated truth, creative freedom, and introduced sculptural wearable objects for men, expanding the brand’s vision of contemporary masculinity.

At the heart of the presentation was Ultra Light Core, MAM’s proprietary lightweight metal technology that preserves the sculptural qualities of its jewelry while integrating seamlessly into garments and the body’s movement. The experience concluded with CUPRA Pulse, an immersive musical platform that reinforced MAM’s evolution into a multidisciplinary fashion universe where jewelry, accessories, ready-to-wear, and performance exist as one.

Meryll Rogge Celebrates the Everyday

Presented at the official residence of the Belgian Ambassador in Paris, Meryll Rogge unveiled her Spring/Summer 2027 collection through a site-specific installation accompanied by collection photography by Julie Greve. Dedicated to the loyal clients who have championed the label since its beginnings, the presentation transformed the residence into an intimate reflection on the people who give the clothes their life.

Inspired by Claes Oldenburg‘s Mouse Museum, books, garments, and everyday objects were carefully arranged throughout the space, reinforcing Rogge’s belief that fashion begins with lived experience rather than fantasy. Here, there is no imagined muse. Instead, the collection is rooted in the realities of the people who wear it.

That philosophy carries into the clothes. Monochromatic floral prints appear across shirts and pencil skirts, while lace-trimmed tops and appliquéd ribbons soften sculptural silhouettes. Bi-color moiré silk eveningwear introduces a couture sensibility, balanced by sporty jackets, striped poplin bloomer shorts, and relaxed knitwear. Oversized chino trousers worn with double-pronged leather belts reference a recurring stylistic motif from Rogge’s earlier collections, while bomber jackets and refined tailoring reinforce the label’s enduring wardrobe. The result is a collection grounded in everyday life—one that celebrates longevity, familiarity, and the people who ultimately give clothes their meaning.

PAZ Looks Beyond the Season

One of the strongest debuts of Spring/Summer 2027 came from PAZ, presented inside the historic Collège des Bernardins. Titled “Beyond Our Time,” the collection questioned fashion’s obsession with seasonality, proposing instead that garments continue to evolve long after they leave the runway. The setting reinforced that philosophy. As one of Paris’ oldest surviving medieval structures, the Collège des Bernardins has endured centuries of political upheaval and cultural transformation, its stone walls shaped by time rather than preserved against it. Likewise, as materials soften, surfaces develop a patina, and signs of wear accumulate, clothing becomes richer rather than obsolete.

That dialogue translated into sculptural leather outerwear, corsetry, harnesses, elongated tailoring that dissolved into cable knits, fluid silhouettes, open backs, and sheer layers. As models moved beneath the vaulted arches, climbing vines and scattered vegetation interrupted the architecture, emphasizing nature’s quiet conversation with the built environment. Strength gradually gave way to vulnerability, allowing rigid structures and softer forms to coexist rather than compete. Rendered almost entirely in black with occasional white looks, the restrained palette reinforced the collection’s central idea: garments are meant to weather, collecting touch, memory, and experience over time. For PAZ, clothing is not designed to be preserved, but to be lived in, becoming more meaningful with every season that passes.