Following a weekend storm that finally broke Paris’s record heatwave, Men’s Fashion Week settled into cooler temperatures just as designers unveiled fresh interpretations of tailoring. Across runways and presentations, the season moved beyond traditional suiting, embracing lighter fabrics, relaxed silhouettes, and wardrobes designed for the realities of warmer summers.
From Hermès‘ leather essentials to Dries Van Noten‘s dreamlike fluidity, tailoring became a vehicle for individuality rather than uniformity. Elsewhere, Celine played with proportion, Givenchy refined the everyday wardrobe, and Jacquemus returned to the effortless ease of the Mediterranean. Together, Spring/Summer 2027 suggests that menswear is becoming less about rigid dress codes and more about personal expression, versatility, and clothes designed to move naturally with the body.
Celine’s Playful Proportions
Courtesy of Celine.
Courtesy of Celine.
For his first menswear collection at Celine, Michael Rider looked forward rather than backward. Instead of revisiting the house archives, Spring/Summer 2027 embraces a youthful sense of freedom rooted in the spontaneity of summer. The show notes describe the collection as “free-styling,” celebrating long days outdoors, returning to familiar places, discovering new ones, and ultimately “letting loose.” That carefree attitude carries throughout the collection, where movement and ease take precedence without sacrificing polish.
A vibrant palette of black, red, beige, brown, white, blue, green, purple, aquamarine, khaki, plum, and pink creates striking moments of contrast. The silhouettes do the same. Rider avoids committing to either slim or oversized proportions, instead pairing broad shoulders with narrow trousers, fitted tops with voluminous pants, and fluid outerwear with lean tailoring. Accessories remain understated—scarves, eyewear, hats, bags, and skinny belts add personality without overwhelming the looks. The result feels youthful but refined, capturing the optimism of summer through playful proportions and effortless styling while signaling a fresh new direction for Celine menswear.
Dries Van Noten’s Hazy Fairytale
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Inspired by Stéphane Mallarmé‘s poem, “The Faun’s Afternoon,” Julian Klausner looked to the hazy space between dreams and reality for Dries Van Noten‘s latest menswear collection. The poem follows a faun awakening from an afternoon nap, uncertain whether the nymphs he encountered were real or imagined, before choosing to return to sleep. “I was moved by the haziness the verses depict,” Klausner shared, “by the constant blurring between the real and the imagined.”
That dreamlike atmosphere unfolds through fluid tailoring, sheer fabrics, and softly fading color. A palette of beige, yellow, orange, muted blues, and earthy browns gradually deepens into black, forest green, and plum, echoing the changing light from afternoon to nightfall. Transparent trench coats, washed silk parkas, softened tailoring, and lace details reveal glimpses of skin, while lightweight charmeuse silks and airy layers seem designed for the sweltering heat, allowing the body to breathe as fabric floats away from the skin and sweat slips naturally beneath it. Bleeding floral prints resemble blooms dissolving into watercolor, while moonlit lake motifs shimmer across silk. Delicate charms of birds, bees, keys, and screws transform accessories into found treasures. The result is a collection where nature, fantasy, and the body merge into one poetic landscape.
Givenchy’s Modern Archetypes
Courtesy of Givenchy.
Courtesy of Givenchy.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Sarah Burton presented her latest menswear collection inside Givenchy‘s Paris headquarters, bringing guests into the house where the brand’s new wardrobe came to life. Inviting guests into the house created an intimate setting, reinforcing Burton’s vision of a wardrobe designed for real life and the different roles one inhabits.
Classic Givenchy archetypes anchor the collection through double-breasted tailoring, wide-leg trousers, crisp white cotton shirting, bombers, and refined outerwear. A foundation of black and white is punctuated by moments of yellow, pink, orange, and green, appearing in embroidered garments and supple leather sportswear separates. The vibrant accents never overpower the tailoring, instead bringing warmth and individuality to timeless essentials.
“I wanted this to feel very personal and intimate, and to reflect the conversations that I have with the friends of the house,” Burton said. Presented across three rooms, the collection unfolded as a complete wardrobe—daywear, eveningwear, and elevated leather sportswear—demonstrating Burton’s vision of modern dressing rooted in impeccable tailoring and quiet elegance.
Hermès’ Transitional Chapter
Courtesy of Hermès.
Courtesy of Hermès.
Following the departure of Véronique Nichanian as Hermès‘ men’s artistic director, Grace Wales Bonner‘s first full collection for the house will not arrive until January. In the meantime, this 40-look Spring/Summer 2027 presentation serves as a thoughtful bridge between creative eras, remaining firmly rooted in the house’s enduring codes of impeccable tailoring, refined leatherwork, and an effortless approach to luxury.
Muted shades of blue, white, grey, black, and brown are punctuated by touches of violet and cobalt. Button-down shirts are layered beneath lightweight knitwear, while collarless silhouettes and cotton-and-silk shirting introduce subtle windowpane checks. Silk foulards replace traditional neckties, loosely knotted and cropped shorter for a more relaxed feel. Elsewhere, featherweight jackets are paired with matching trousers, openwork seams lighten leather pieces, and knit jackets blur the line between tailoring and knitwear.
Though transitional by nature, the collection is assured, adapting Hermès’ timeless craftsmanship to contemporary dressing while setting the stage for the house’s next chapter.
Aro x Hed Mayner Reimagine a Classic
Courtesy of Aro x Hed Mayner.
Courtesy of Aro x Hed Mayner.
One of the standout collaborations from Men’s Fashion Week came courtesy of Barcelona-based footwear brand Aro and Hed Mayner. Together, they reimagined the Joaneta, one of Aro’s signature sneakers, through Mayner’s distinctly sculptural lens. Debuting on the runway in rich shades of royal blue, the sneakers featured a flocked finish that sits somewhere between matte and shine, creating an almost denim-like texture that paired seamlessly with the collection’s organza, cotton poplin, and denim looks.
“I wanted to add flocking to give the surface a slightly harder texture, flatter and more precise, with something between a matte and shiny finish,” says Mayner. “They connected well with the looks and gave them a softer feeling, allowing movement, comfort, and elegance.” The result is a thoughtful fusion of Aro’s Barcelona craftsmanship and Hed Mayner’s contemporary Paris-based design language.
SOSHIOTSUKI Melts the Suit
Courtesy of SOSHIOTSUKI.
Courtesy of SOSHIOTSUKI.
Titled “The Persistence of Memory,” SOSHIOTSUKI‘s Spring/Summer 2027 collection explored the quiet nostalgia of memories both lived and inherited. Following Soshi Otsuki‘s 2025 LVMH Prize win, the designer turned to photographs, films, and stories passed through generations, asking how moments never personally experienced can still resonate. As the show notes explain, the collection imagines “a usually strict father allowing himself to loosen up, just slightly, while on holiday.”
That subtle shift informed every garment. Tailoring softened through gently curved collars, exaggerated rolling lapels, belts with metal inserts, and swim trunks peeking beneath tailored shorts. Rather than abandoning structure, Otsuki relaxed it. Internal canvases, linings, and shoulder pads remained, but were engineered to move more naturally with the body.
Inspired by Salvador Dalí‘s melting forms, flowing collars and curved lapels created an “S” silhouette that suggested garments yielding to gravity rather than resisting it. Newly developed textiles and reproductions of fabrics first produced in Japan more than two decades ago appeared in washed wools, linens, and cottons rendered in dry beige, clay red, and faded blue. Like memories themselves, the clothes felt gently weathered, preparing the wearer not only to remember, but to create new stories.
