This year’s Paris Fashion Week is more than just fashion. Innovative shows from Issey Miyake complete with a sculptural performance, eye-catching jewel tones from Nina Ricci, and captivating portals from McQueen push the limits of fashion. Join Whitewall as we explore the standout collections from leading designers.
Isabel Marant Reinvents the Vest
Courtesy of Isabel Marant.
Courtesy of Isabell Marant.
Isabel Marant’s fall/ winter collection hit the Paris runway with chic cuts of leather, safety pin accessories, and deconstructed suits. Fashionably taking over the Palais Royal gardens, both male and female models wore effortlessly cool pin striped vets, redefining the traditional suit. Though filled with bold blacks, and red tartan prints, Marant featured a hint of her iconic bohemian style with sheer layering, and lingerie as outerwear. The show explored the contrasts of masculine and female styling, emphasizing Marant’s fluid styling that fits both persona’s.
McQueen Explores Dandyism
Courtesy of McQueen.
Courtesy of McQueen.
The McQueen autumn/ winter collection dazzled the audience with a transformative set designed by Tom Scutt. A sharp portal cut through Victorian architecture evoking The Picture of Dorian Gray. The otherworldly lighting bounced off of the mirrored surfaces, forming a glamorous entrance for the models . Inspired by the neo-dandy aesthetic, Creative Director Sean McGirr blended material with Victorian gothic influences. “To me, dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment; deeply personal, playful and transgressive. It raises questions of character and identity, idealism and gender. I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world,” said McGirr.
“I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world,”
Seán McGirr
Silk, lace, and shearling fabrics wrapped the body in intimate elegance, while intricate embroidery added a layer of surreal artistry. A daring reimagining of British tailoring broke tradition, with sculpted silhouettes, elongated boots, and opulent accessories. McGirr dre from the daring energy of London with a complex exploration of fabric, theme, and intricate design.
Giambattista Valli Pulls From Feminine Artistry
Courtesy of Giambattista Valli.
Courtesy of Giambattista Valli.
The artistry of Giambattista Valli’s muses shine in the fall/ winter collection, inspiring a show full of elegance and freedom. Donyale Luna, Elsa Peretti and Marina Schiano influenced the designs of the show with their liberating creativity. The collection debuted with soft, body hugging ivory and pastel bouclés that created a simple yet sophisticated look. Evening wear featured sharp tuxedo inspired garments and sequined dresses. Standout pieces included elegantly tailored fabrics with “broom flower” prints in warm vintage tinted colors. From dazzling fur lined coats to dramatic ruffled mini dresses Valli captured the essence of feminine artistry.
Hermès Captures Elite Craftsmanship
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Hermés.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Hermés.
Inspired by colors in nature, the Hermès collection featured warm greens, deep browns, and marble whites. The collection highlighted luxurious craftsmanship, with modular pieces like reversible overcoats and convertible shorts made for the practicality and elegance of an evolving woman. Leather and felt worked together in harmony while sleek lambskin pieces, denim reinforced with leather, and cashmere turtlenecks under goatskin coats emphasized the brands exclusivity. Bright pops of the earth green garments stood out from the neutral palette, captivating the audience with a masterful blend of color, structure, and material.
Issey Miyake x Erwin Wurm
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Issey Miyake‘s latest collection pushed the boundaries of fashion, drawing inspiration from the iconic work of Austrian artist Erwin Wurm. The set featured Wurm’s “One Minute Sculptures,” brought to life by performers, creating a dynamic connection between clothing and the human body, a theme central to Miyake’s design philosophy. The collection explored the intersection of 2-D and 3-D fashion, showcasing still lifes of “KNIT (AS IT IS)” on structured white garments.. Other pieces, reminiscent of Wurm’s inflatable sculptures, blended abstract sculptural forms with knitwear. Innovative designs included shirts with a third sleeve and paper bags transformed into wearable tops. Footwear featured a collaboration with Camper, designed by Satoshi Kondo. The shoes featured a piece of leather wrapped around the model’s foot, reflecting Miyake’s “piece of cloth” concept in its most minimal yet impactful form.
Nina Ricci’s Seductive Silhouettes
Photo by Paolo Caponetto, courtesy of Nina Ricci.
Photo by Paolo Caponetto, courtesy of Nina Ricci.
Opulent jewel tones bring lush furs to life in Nina Ricci’s fall/ winter collection. A soft, seductive fluidity emerged from dramatic necklines inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer’s wardrobe in Scarface. Bold zebra print coats allure of the 70s wardrobe of Ali McGraw, bringing the powerful elegance of these women to the runway. Delicate lace becomes a statement, while structured fur shawls stun in peridot hues complementing each other perfectly. A cowhide printed bag with elongated handles reimagined a 1996 silhouette from the archives, merging the past and present opulence of the brand.
