The Best Fashion Collections and Shows of 2024

2024 was a rapturous year in fashion as made clear by stunning presentations from Maison Margiela, Anthony Vaccarello, Alaïa, and more. Here, Whitewall brings you front row to the most dynamic and skillful collections which unfolded in close collaboration with some of the top creative minds of our time. 

Maison Margiela’s Bewitching Artisanal Collection Debuts Under a Full Moon

Maison Margiela by John Galliano. Haute Couture, January 2024, Paris

During Paris haute couture week, Maison Margiela’s 2024 Artisanal Collection runway show beckoned to visitors from within an eccentric speakeasy setting under the historic Pont Alexandre III. With Creative Director John Galliano at the helm, a painterly performance embracing the fine art of dressing for shimmering enterprises under the Paris moonlight unfolded. Inspired by cinematic black-and-white imagery of 1920s Parisian life documented by Hungarian-French photographer and sculptor Brassaï, as well as the enigmatic artworks of Dutch-French painter Kees Van Dongen, a decadent character study on the bewitching self unfurled. 

Maison Margiela’s January 2024 Artisanal Collection, under the visionary direction of John Galliano, is widely hailed as one of the best fashion shows of the year for several compelling reasons:

1. Immersive Setting: Staged in an eccentric speakeasy beneath the iconic Pont Alexandre III, the show transformed a historical Parisian landmark into a captivating theater. The setting not only reflected the opulent nostalgia of the 1920s but also added a layer of intimacy and drama to the presentation, creating an unforgettable atmosphere.

2. Narrative-Driven Design: Galliano’s ability to weave storytelling into his designs was unparalleled. Drawing from the cinematic black-and-white imagery of Brassaï and the decadent, expressive brushstrokes of Kees Van Dongen, the collection offered a poetic exploration of identity and self-expression.

3. Artistic Inspiration: The fusion of Brassaï’s gritty yet romantic documentation of 1920s Parisian nightlife and Van Dongen’s vibrant, evocative portraiture created a rich dialogue between fashion and fine art. This intellectual depth set the show apart from other couture presentations.

4. Galliano’s Signature Techniques: The collection showcased Galliano’s masterful use of deconstruction and reconstruction, blending Margiela’s avant-garde ethos with a painterly elegance. Draping, layering, and couture-level tailoring highlighted the “fine art of dressing” with a sense of theatricality and craft.

5. Timeless Relevance: The collection’s focus on “shimmering enterprises under the Paris moonlight” captured a universal desire for escapism and glamour, resonating with audiences in the context of contemporary challenges.

6. Memorable Performative Element: Galliano introduced a theatrical aspect to the show, with models embodying “decadent characters” rather than simply walking the runway. This performative approach emphasized Margiela’s ethos of individuality and personal storytelling.

7. Critical Acclaim and Cultural Impact: The show received unanimous praise from critics and became a talking point in both fashion and art circles, reaffirming Margiela’s influence as a pioneer in conceptual couture.

The January 2024 Artisanal Collection was not merely a fashion show – it was an immersive artistic experience, showcasing Galliano’s genius and elevating the conversation about what haute couture can be.

Anthony Vaccarello Debuts a Barely-There Winter Collection for Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Autumn/Winter 2024 Womenswear, Paris

Anthony Vaccarello imagined a collection for Saint Laurent that played with our idea of visibility for winter 2024. In Paris, the show began with a soundtrack of intense strings (curated by SebastiAn) as the first model walked out onto a set made up of two connecting circular rooms. Against draped emerald velvet damask floor-to-ceiling curtains, disks of light grew bright from above, reflecting against a shimmering floor that looked like the streets of Paris on a rainy evening.The collection began with sheer, feminine dresses and separates that fit snugly against the body, at times suggesting the mere idea of clothing. That concept became clearly intentional on the part of Vaccarello, who seemed to have created whole looks from hosiery head to toe.

The Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show by Anthony Vaccarello was widely regarded as one of the best fashion events of 2024 for several compelling reasons:

1. Bold Creative Vision: Anthony Vaccarello challenged conventional notions of winter fashion with a “barely-there” concept. The collection played with the idea of visibility, featuring sheer, form-fitting dresses and separates that bordered on the abstract, blurring the line between clothing and the human form. This audacious approach showcased Vaccarello’s ability to innovate within a historically conservative season.

2. Mesmerizing Set Design: The show’s set—a pair of circular rooms draped with emerald velvet damask curtains—created a cinematic atmosphere. The shimmering floor, reminiscent of rain-slicked Paris streets, and dramatic lighting added a layer of romance and intensity. The interplay between the set and the clothing emphasized a sensory experience beyond fashion.

3. Powerful Soundtrack: The soundtrack, curated by French DJ and producer SebastiAn, underscored the show’s emotional and theatrical appeal. The intense strings set a tone of drama and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the collection’s ethereal yet daring aesthetic.

4. Focus on Femininity and Sensuality: The collection celebrated the female form in a modern, unapologetic way. By designing pieces that suggested the “idea of clothing” rather than adhering to traditional garment structures, Vaccarello redefined sensuality for the winter wardrobe, making a bold statement about minimalism and body confidence.

5. Mastery of Fabric and Technique: The use of sheer fabrics and hosiery-like textures showcased exceptional craftsmanship and innovation. The precision required to execute such designs without compromising elegance was a testament to Saint Laurent’s atelier.

6. A Unified Narrative: Every element—from the set and music to the clothing and lighting—came together to tell a cohesive story. This holistic approach elevated the show from a mere presentation of fashion to an artistic performance, resonating with critics and audiences alike.

7. Cultural Impact: The show reflected broader cultural conversations about visibility, body positivity, and the evolving role of clothing as a form of self-expression. By embracing vulnerability and individuality, Vaccarello struck a chord with contemporary audiences, making the show memorable and highly relevant.

Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show was celebrated not only for its bold aesthetic and technical brilliance but also for its ability to evoke emotion and push boundaries in fashion storytelling.

America Beauty According to Alaïa at the Guggenheim

Alaïa by Peter Mulier. Winter/Spring 2025 Womenswear, New York

Alaïa presented its winter/spring 2025 in New York at the iconic Solomon R. Guggenheim. As Creative Director Peter Mulier described, its choice of venue and city came from an obsession with “the idea of American beauty.” “For me, American beauty means freedom, of body and of spirit. A simplicity, a modernity and directness, a purity. And both for Alaïa and myself, America is a home away from home,” said Mulier. “The collection itself has been shaped, inherently, by that idea – by showing in an art museum, in America,” he continued. “There is a sense of American sportswear, its ease and practicality. There are traces of the work of American fashion greats – Adrian, Halston, Charles James, Claire McCardell. American beauty, again. There is also a sculptural aspect, born from Azzedine’s obsessions, and my own.”

The Alaïa Winter/Spring 2025 (WS25) show at the Guggenheim was widely regarded as one of the best fashion presentations of 2024 for several reasons, rooted in its aesthetic, conceptual depth, and innovative execution:

1. Iconic Venue: The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum: The choice of the Guggenheim in New York as the venue was both inspired and symbolic. The museum’s modernist architecture, with its spiraling structure and artistic legacy, mirrored the sculptural and innovative nature of Alaïa’s designs. Presenting in such an iconic space elevated the show beyond fashion, situating it within the realm of art.

The venue also underscored Peter Mulier’s thematic exploration of “American beauty,” as the Guggenheim represents both global sophistication and American cultural history.

2. A Tribute to American Fashion Heritage: Mulier’s collection was steeped in references to legendary American designers such as Adrian, Halston, Charles James, and Claire McCardell. By drawing on their legacy, the collection honored the innovation and spirit of American fashion while blending it with Alaïa’s signature sculptural and sensual aesthetic.

The incorporation of American sportswear elements—ease, practicality, and simplicity—into Alaïa’s traditionally luxurious and structured designs created a compelling synthesis of European refinement and American dynamism.

3. Celebration of Freedom and Modernity: Mulier’s interpretation of “American beauty” as freedom—both of body and spirit—manifested in the collection’s fluidity, wearability, and sensuality. This theme resonated deeply in a year when individual expression and inclusivity were key cultural touchstones.

The garments struck a balance between purity and complexity, reflecting a modern and direct approach to design while maintaining Alaïa’s signature craftsmanship.

4. Sculptural Mastery and Azzedine Alaïa’s Legacy: The collection paid homage to Azzedine Alaïa’s legacy with its sculptural silhouettes and precise tailoring. Mulier incorporated his own contemporary vision while staying true to the house’s DNA, resulting in a seamless blend of past and present.

The interplay of structure and fluidity showcased Mulier’s technical prowess and Alaïa’s enduring influence on modern fashion.

5. Conceptual Depth: The show wasn’t just about clothes; it was an exploration of identity, culture, and artistic expression. By presenting the collection in an art museum, Mulier blurred the lines between fashion and art, emphasizing that Alaïa’s designs are as much about sculptural form and beauty as they are about wearability.

The emphasis on “purity” and “simplicity” highlighted a return to timeless design principles, making the collection resonate with the audience on both an emotional and intellectual level.

6. Resonance with Broader Cultural Themes: In a year marked by a growing appreciation for craftsmanship, sustainability, and authenticity, the Alaïa WS25 collection struck a chord. It celebrated both individuality and universality, bridging the gaps between European heritage, American innovation, and global modernity.

7. The Show as a Narrative Experience: The combination of fashion, architecture, and cultural storytelling created an unforgettable experience for attendees. The setting, music, and collection came together to tell a cohesive story of beauty, freedom, and artistic exploration.

In summary, Alaïa WS25 was a standout show because it transcended the boundaries of traditional runway presentations, offering a deeply conceptual and visually stunning exploration of American beauty. Mulier’s ability to honor both Alaïa’s heritage and American fashion’s legacy while crafting a contemporary narrative set the collection apart as one of the most impactful of 2024.

Wiederhoeft Gets Back to Its Roots

Wiederhoeft by Jackson Wiederhoeft. Spring/Summer 2025, New York

Jackson Wiederhoeft spent the summer reflecting on his eponymous brand’s ethos. The result was a vulnerable three-act show called “Manifesto,” set to the mating call of the extinct Kauaʻi ʻōʻō bird. Onlookers could hear mother-of-pearl seashells rustle on the models’ white tulle dresses as they walked along the runway, debuting an ethereal new line of dramatic evening and bridal looks. The real star of the show, though, was Wiederhoeft’s corset program: the designer debuted a ready-to-wear version of his popular Rider corset in 68 sizes. Additionally, look number 16 featured a double-faced silk satin piece hand-dyed by Silver Oak Wines‘ 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by a hand-beaded draped bust and poppy leaves. The show was followed by an afterparty at downtown hotspot KYU.

Jackson Wiederhoeft’s Spring/Summer 2025 NYFW show, titled “Manifesto,” stood out as one of the best fashion presentations of 2024 for its emotional depth, innovative craftsmanship, and unique storytelling. Here’s why it resonated so strongly:

1. Vulnerability and Reflection: Wiederhoeft used this collection as an opportunity to reconnect with the brand’s core ethos. The three-act structure of the show—centered around themes of artistry, craftsmanship, and self-expression—was deeply personal, offering an introspective narrative that invited audiences into the designer’s world.

The show’s soundtrack, featuring the haunting mating call of the extinct Kauaʻi ʻōʻō bird, added a layer of poignancy, symbolizing themes of loss, beauty, and the fleeting nature of creation.

2. Ethereal Aesthetic and Sensory Experience: The collection featured dramatic evening and bridal looks with a focus on ethereal materials like white tulle and mother-of-pearl seashells, which rustled as models walked. This tactile, auditory detail elevated the experience, making the garments feel alive and deeply connected to nature.

The blend of delicate textures and striking silhouettes created a dreamlike atmosphere, amplifying the show’s emotional and visual impact.

3. Groundbreaking Corset Program: Wiederhoeft’s debut of a ready-to-wear version of the Rider corset in 68 sizes was a groundbreaking moment in fashion. This move toward inclusivity and accessibility demonstrated the designer’s commitment to catering to diverse body types while maintaining the elegance and craftsmanship for which Wiederhoeft is known.

Corsetry, a Wiederhoeft signature, was reimagined as both a functional and artistic garment, blending historical references with modern sensibilities.

4. Innovative Use of Materials: Look number 16 exemplified Wiederhoeft’s dedication to artistry and experimentation. The double-faced silk satin piece, hand-dyed with Silver Oak Wines’ 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, showcased a unique interplay between fashion and winemaking. The addition of hand-beaded draping and poppy leaves underscored the brand’s commitment to intricate, bespoke details.

This creative use of materials added a layer of storytelling to the collection, weaving in themes of craftsmanship, sustainability, and innovation.

5. A Theatrical and Emotional Runway: The three-act structure gave the show a theatrical quality, blending elements of performance art with high fashion. Each act felt distinct yet cohesive, taking the audience on an emotional journey.

The use of symbolism, such as the extinct bird and natural elements, created a profound narrative that elevated the collection from fashion to an evocative art form.

6. Downtown Glamour and Cultural Relevance: The afterparty at KYU, a popular downtown hotspot, cemented the show’s connection to New York’s cultural and nightlife scene. This seamless integration of fashion, art, and community highlighted Wiederhoeft’s relevance and influence within the contemporary creative landscape.

7. Celebration of Craftsmanship: The intricate detailing, such as the hand-beading, bespoke dyeing techniques, and luxurious fabrics, underscored Wiederhoeft’s mastery of couture-level craftsmanship. This commitment to artistry stood out in a season where many designers leaned heavily on minimalism or practicality.

The collection honored tradition while innovating for a modern audience, striking a perfect balance between theatricality and wearability.

8. Inclusivity and Modernity: By expanding the Rider corset program to an inclusive size range, Wiederhoeft challenged industry norms while staying true to the brand’s romantic and dramatic aesthetic. This move reflected a larger cultural shift toward diversity and inclusivity in fashion, making the collection both beautiful and socially impactful.

Jackson Wiederhoeft’s “Manifesto” was a standout show because it transcended fashion to become a deeply personal and immersive artistic experience. The blend of emotional storytelling, innovative materials, inclusive design, and exceptional craftsmanship ensured that the collection resonated with both critics and audiences, solidifying its place as one of the most memorable moments of 2024.

A Regal Faith Ringgold-Inspired Dior Couture Collection

Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Women’s Fall/Winter 2024-25, Paris

“The most important thing to me in life is inspiration,” the late contemporary artist Faith Ringgold, who recently passed away at 93 years old, once said. “I want to inspire others and I want to be inspired.” This testament was one Ringgold embraced her entire life, revealed through poignant words and unforgettable details in her many artworks and books—from narrational quilts, sculptures, and performances to titles like Tar Beach, We Came to America, and Coming to Jones Road. Ringgold’s powerful sentiment also inspired Dior Couture’s women’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, to embark on a new collection that embraced truth, determination, and feminism—haute couture Fall/Winter 2024-25, seen in Paris. Although Ringgold passed away two months before, the installation designed for the show was imagined last year in collaboration with the artist and Dior’s long-term collaborators, the Chanakya Ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft.    

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Women’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection was celebrated as one of the best fashion shows of 2024 for its profound homage to Faith Ringgold and its seamless blend of artistic inspiration, social commentary, and couture craftsmanship. Here’s why the show stood out:

1. Tribute to Faith Ringgold: The collection was inspired by the late Faith Ringgold, a trailblazing artist known for her narrational quilts, sculptures, and books that celebrated truth, determination, and feminism. By drawing from Ringgold’s work and legacy, Chiuri connected the collection to a larger narrative of empowerment and creativity.

The timing of the tribute, just two months after Ringgold’s passing, added emotional resonance to the show, making it a heartfelt celebration of her life and contributions.

2. Collaborative Artistry: The show was staged in collaboration with the Chanakya Ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, long-time Dior collaborators. Together, they created an immersive installation that was envisioned alongside Ringgold before her passing. This installation became a powerful visual and emotional anchor for the collection, blurring the lines between art and fashion.

The intricate embroidery and craftsmanship reflected the ethos of both Ringgold’s and Dior’s dedication to detail and storytelling.

3. Feminist Themes: Maria Grazia Chiuri has been a steadfast advocate for feminism in fashion, and this collection deepened that commitment. Drawing from Ringgold’s work, which often explored themes of identity, resilience, and equality, Chiuri infused the collection with garments that celebrated strength and individuality.

The designs communicated a message of empowerment, echoing Ringgold’s belief in inspiration as a transformative force.

4. Couture Craftsmanship: As expected from Dior, the collection featured exceptional craftsmanship, with elaborate embroidery, hand-painted fabrics, and sculptural silhouettes. Each piece was a testament to the skill and artistry of Dior’s ateliers, elevating the garments to wearable art.

The narrational and textile-driven influences of Ringgold’s work were evident in the intricate details, which honored her iconic quilts while staying true to Dior’s haute couture heritage.

5. Regal and Timeless Aesthetic: The collection embraced a regal sensibility, with designs that exuded elegance and strength. The silhouettes—ranging from structured gowns to fluid, draped ensembles—were timeless yet contemporary, embodying a sense of sophistication that transcended trends.

The use of rich fabrics, bold colors, and intricate embellishments created a visual language that was both striking and evocative.

6. Integration of Art and Fashion: The collaboration with Ringgold and the incorporation of her artistic legacy transformed the runway into a cultural and artistic dialogue. By intertwining her narrational style with haute couture, Chiuri elevated the collection into an interdisciplinary masterpiece.

The show demonstrated how fashion can serve as a medium for storytelling, preserving and amplifying the voices of influential artists.

7. Cultural and Emotional Resonance: The show’s themes resonated deeply with audiences, reflecting broader cultural conversations about art, identity, and social justice. By honoring Ringgold’s legacy, Chiuri created a collection that felt meaningful and relevant in 2024.

The emotional weight of the tribute, coupled with the artistry of the garments, left a lasting impression on both critics and attendees.

8. Holistic Experience: The immersive installation, powerful soundtrack, and meticulously curated collection created a cohesive and unforgettable experience. The show was more than a presentation of clothing—it was a celebration of art, history, and the enduring power of inspiration.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection was a triumph of artistry, craftsmanship, and storytelling. By honoring Faith Ringgold’s legacy and blending feminist themes with couture excellence, Chiuri created a show that transcended fashion, leaving an indelible mark on the year’s cultural and creative landscape.

Willy Chavarria’s Dynamic Ode to “AMÉRICA” for Spring/Summer 2025 

Willy Chavarria. Spring Summer 2025, New York

The ever-inspired Willy Chavarria rejoiced in our nation’s beaming potential with a fierce Spring/Summer 2025 runway show titled “AMÉRICA.” Dynamic musical trio Yahritza Y Su Esencia commenced the presentation with a live performance of “Querida,” a soulful cover of Juan Gabriel’s iconic 1984 song. In three mesmeric chapters of Fine Fashions, Willy Produce, and Community Center, Chavarria unveiled forward-thinking shapes of Italian cotton sportswear. In a debut collaboration with adidas, 22 kaleidoscopic looks further interlaced the realms of fashion and sportswear with bold and romantic flourishes. A deft revisualizing of the adidas archival “Jabbar” sneaker—initially produced in honor of basketball legend Kareen Abdul Jabbar—was also spotted on the runway. Notable partnerships with Allen Edmonds, the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), and the effervescent Willy Chavarria x Tequila Don Julio Capsule Collection culminated in a catwalk brimming with cultural connection and celebration. 

Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, “AMÉRICA,” was hailed as one of the best fashion presentations of 2024 due to its bold cultural narrative, innovative designs, and deeply resonant storytelling. Here’s why it stood out:

1. Celebratory Tribute to “AMÉRICA”: The show was a dynamic ode to the multifaceted identity of “AMÉRICA,” celebrating the nation’s cultural diversity and potential. Chavarria’s perspective reframed American identity through a lens of inclusivity and optimism, resonating deeply with contemporary audiences.

By weaving together themes of community, history, and resilience, Chavarria elevated the show beyond fashion, making it a cultural and emotional statement.

2. Mesmerizing Structure and Musical Prowess: The show unfolded in three chapters: Fine Fashions, Willy Produce, and Community Center, each presenting distinct yet cohesive elements of Chavarria’s vision. This structure gave the presentation depth, transforming it into a narrative experience.

The live performance of Juan Gabriel’s “Querida” by Yahritza Y Su Esencia added a soulful and nostalgic touch, setting the tone for a runway that honored heritage while pushing boundaries.

3. Innovative Collaboration with Adidas: The debut of Chavarria’s collaboration with adidas was a highlight. The 22 kaleidoscopic looks fused fashion and sportswear, showcasing bold yet romantic designs that redefined modern athleisure.

The revisualized adidas archival “Jabbar” sneaker added a historic layer to the collection, paying homage to basketball legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar while celebrating the intersection of sports and culture.

4. Fine Materials and Craftsmanship: Italian cotton sportswear was a cornerstone of the collection, offering elevated, forward-thinking silhouettes that balanced sophistication with everyday wearability.

The attention to detail and luxurious materials underscored Chavarria’s commitment to craftsmanship, ensuring that the designs stood out not just visually but in quality as well.

5. Meaningful Partnerships: The show featured collaborations with Allen Edmonds, the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), and the Willy Chavarria x Tequila Don Julio Capsule Collection. These partnerships added layers of cultural relevance and social impact, reinforcing the show’s ethos of community and connection.

The involvement of the ACLU further highlighted Chavarria’s commitment to activism, blending fashion with advocacy for civil rights and social justice.

6. Intersection of Fashion and Activism: Chavarria’s work has always been rooted in social commentary, and “AMÉRICA” continued this tradition. By celebrating diversity and inclusion while addressing societal challenges, the show resonated as both an artistic and political statement.

The blending of bold, romantic designs with an underlying message of unity and progress made the collection timely and impactful.

7. Cultural Connection and Celebration: The show brimmed with cultural pride, from its musical selections to the vibrant designs and meaningful partnerships. This celebration of heritage and identity was both deeply personal and universally resonant, creating a sense of joy and solidarity.

The collection encapsulated the spirit of community centers, places of gathering, collaboration, and creativity, which Chavarria drew inspiration from for the show’s themes.

8. Immersive Runway Experience: The presentation’s energy, amplified by live music, bold designs, and a celebratory atmosphere, captivated audiences and critics alike. Each element—from the nostalgic references to innovative collaborations—came together to create a holistic and unforgettable runway experience.

Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2025 “AMÉRICA” show stood out for its cultural richness, innovative collaborations, and powerful storytelling. By seamlessly blending fashion with activism, heritage, and modern design, Chavarria created a deeply resonant presentation that celebrated the potential and beauty of a unified, inclusive vision of America.

Chanel Cruise Collection Debuts at the Le Corbusier-designed MAMO in Marseille

Chanel by Virginie Viard. Cruise 2024-25, Marseille

Under the creative direction of Virginie Viard, Chanel unveiled its Cruise 2024/25 collection in Marseille on May 2. The fashion house chose Marseille, a city steeped in history and modernity, as the backdrop for its latest showcase. The light-on-its-feet collection evoked sunlight, ocean, and air, featuring intricately embroideries, hoods, and, of course, swimwear. The looks married Chanel’s classic sophistication with “the pulsating heart of the Mediterranean.” The MAMO Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse provided a fitting setting for the showcase, partially designed by Le Corbusier. Chanel’s commitment to the arts was further highlighted through its collaboration with the Ballet National de Marseille and Marion Barbeau. In a short film directed by César Award winner Ladj Ly, featuring choreography by (LA)HORDE, Chanel explores the vibrant landmarks of Marseille. 

Virginie Viard’s Chanel Cruise 2024/25 collection debuted at the iconic MAMO Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse in Marseille and became one of the standout fashion shows of 2024. Here’s why this presentation was so remarkable:

1. A Unique and Iconic Setting: The choice of the MAMO Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse, designed by Le Corbusier, offered a stunning and meaningful venue. The architectural masterpiece symbolized the harmony of history, modernity, and innovation, echoing Chanel’s timeless yet forward-looking designs.

Marseille, with its rich Mediterranean culture, vibrant history, and contemporary relevance, provided a perfect backdrop for a collection inspired by sunlight, ocean, and air.

2. Seamless Blend of Fashion and Mediterranean Spirit: The collection captured the “pulsating heart of the Mediterranean” through its light, breezy aesthetic. Swimwear, intricately embroidered pieces, and hooded ensembles were infused with an air of effortless sophistication that reflected Chanel’s DNA while celebrating the region’s vitality.

The palette and textures evoked the essence of the Mediterranean, embodying the sunlight, waves, and warm breezes, making the collection resonate deeply with its setting.

3. Integration of Art and Performance: Chanel’s collaboration with the Ballet National de Marseille and principal dancer Marion Barbeau added an artistic dimension to the show. The performance brought fluidity and movement, mirroring the collection’s airy elegance.

A short film by César Award-winning director Ladj Ly, featuring choreography by the innovative collective (LA)HORDE, expanded the collection’s narrative beyond the runway. By highlighting Marseille’s landmarks, Chanel emphasized its commitment to cultural storytelling.

4. Celebration of Le Corbusier’s Legacy: By showcasing the collection in a space partly designed by modernist pioneer Le Corbusier, Chanel paid tribute to architectural innovation and creative legacy. This thoughtful integration of fashion with a cultural landmark elevated the show’s artistic significance.

The Cité Radieuse’s clean lines and sculptural forms harmonized beautifully with Chanel’s designs, highlighting the enduring interplay between architecture and fashion.

5. Virginie Viard’s Distinct Vision: Viard continues to reinterpret Chanel’s heritage with fresh, contemporary nuances. This collection stayed true to Chanel’s classic sophistication while embracing a freer, more playful sensibility perfect for a Cruise collection.

The juxtaposition of structured tailoring with flowing, feminine silhouettes highlighted Viard’s ability to innovate within the house’s storied legacy.

6. Commitment to the Arts: Chanel’s support of artistic collaborations, from the Ballet National de Marseille to filmmakers and choreographers, underscored its dedication to being more than a fashion house. This fusion of fashion, art, and performance made the show a multifaceted cultural event.

These elements reinforced the brand’s role as a patron of the arts, deepening its cultural relevance.

7. A Holistic Experience: The combination of the show’s architectural setting, artistic partnerships, and cinematic storytelling created an immersive experience. The synergy between the Mediterranean setting, the fashion collection, and the performances resulted in a cohesive narrative that resonated with audiences.

Guests were transported into a Chanel universe that extended beyond the garments, encompassing history, art, and culture.

8. A Contemporary Tribute to Timeless Style: The Cruise collection balanced contemporary trends, such as breezy swimwear and hoods, with Chanel’s timeless codes, including intricate embroidery and sophisticated tailoring. This harmony ensured the collection was both relevant and classic.

The designs reflected an ease and versatility ideal for modern travel, embodying the essence of a Cruise collection while staying true to the house’s elegance.

Chanel’s Cruise 2024/25 show in Marseille was a masterful fusion of fashion, art, architecture, and Mediterranean spirit. By paying homage to the region’s history and culture while showcasing timeless designs, Virginie Viard created a show that transcended the runway to become an unforgettable cultural celebration.

Dries Van Noten’s Final Collection Shines in Paris

Dries Van Noten. Spring/Summer 2025, Paris

In 1986, Dries Van Noten followed in the footsteps of two generations of tailors by exploring the world of fashion. This summer in Paris, his 150th collection was presented as his last. With Spring/Summer 2025, we witnessed the last chapter of the designer’s magic unfold, embedded with meaningful storytelling and time. The contemporary Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt—who in her work considers time and transforms everyday objects into transparent vitrines to show its effects—provided ample inspiration to Van Noten. Ideas of dressing evolved over this timeline from classic to innovative, joining techniques, materials, and styles that transformed with each body. Special for the collection, as well, was the use of suminagashi—a traditional Japanese marbling technique that is over 1,000 years old.

Dries Van Noten’s final collection, presented in Paris for Spring/Summer 2025, was an extraordinary event that transcended the typical boundaries of fashion. Marking his 150th collection and his farewell to the runway, the show was imbued with deep meaning, innovative craftsmanship, and artistic resonance. Here’s why it stood out as one of the best fashion shows of 2024:

1. A Moment of Historical Significance: The collection was Dries Van Noten’s last, making it an emotionally charged and historic moment in the fashion world. It was not just a celebration of his career but also a reflection on decades of artistry, innovation, and storytelling.

As a third-generation tailor, Van Noten’s career has been a testament to his mastery of design, and this final collection served as a culmination of his legacy.

2. Collaboration with Artist Edith Dekyndt: The Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt profoundly influenced the collection, aligning with Van Noten’s enduring fascination with time and transformation. Dekyndt’s exploration of the effects of time on everyday objects mirrored the designer’s journey through evolving aesthetics.

The concept of time as a designer became a central theme, with garments reflecting the passage of time through their materials, textures, and techniques.

3. Innovation in Techniques and Materials: The collection prominently featured suminagashi, a 1,000-year-old Japanese marbling technique, reflecting Van Noten’s dedication to merging tradition with innovation. The swirling, organic patterns created by this ancient art symbolized transformation and fluidity.

Van Noten combined his hallmark mastery of tailoring with experimental approaches, creating pieces that felt both timeless and cutting-edge.

4. Storytelling Through Design: Each look in the collection seemed to tell a story, evolving from classic silhouettes to avant-garde creations. The garments served as a visual timeline of Van Noten’s career, showcasing his ability to balance structure with fluidity, tradition with modernity.

This progression highlighted the designer’s journey and his commitment to pushing the boundaries of fashion.

5. A Poetic Finale: The collection was not just a farewell but also a celebration of Van Noten’s artistic vision. The show carried a sense of poetry, with each piece reflecting the themes of memory, transformation, and legacy.

The presentation was imbued with a reflective mood, allowing audiences to witness the designer’s introspection and gratitude for his journey.

6. Masterful Craftsmanship: The tailoring and construction of the garments were impeccable, demonstrating Van Noten’s unparalleled skill and the artistry of his ateliers.

Intricate details, such as the marbled patterns of suminagashi and the textural interplay of fabrics, exemplified the designer’s attention to detail and commitment to quality.

7. Artistic Presentation: The show itself was a work of art, blending fashion, storytelling, and performance. It captured the essence of Van Noten’s design philosophy: that fashion is not merely about clothing but about creating a profound emotional and artistic experience.

8. A Tribute to His Legacy: The collection paid homage to Van Noten’s 38-year career, reflecting his impact on fashion and his role as a pioneer of contemporary design.

It celebrated his ability to merge tradition and innovation, craft and concept, and beauty and intellect, leaving a lasting impression on the fashion industry.

Dries Van Noten’s final collection in Paris was more than a fashion show; it was a poignant farewell and a celebration of a remarkable career. Through his collaboration with Edith Dekyndt, his use of ancient techniques like suminagashi, and his masterful storytelling, Van Noten created a collection that will be remembered as a testament to his legacy and as one of the most significant fashion moments of 2024.

Loewe’s Pastoral Collection Inspired by Painter Albert York

Loewe by Jonathan Anderson. Fall/Winter 2024, Paris

In Paris, at the Château de Vincennes, Loewe presented its fall/winter 2024 collection exploring provenance and the pastoral. Amid a labyrinth painted three shades of green, Creative Director Jonathan Anderson led attendees on a journey through rolling hills and the first buds of spring. For the season, Anderson was taken by the work of artist Albert York, whose 14 paintings hung along the oh-so-green walls. We saw that inspiration of Eden and landscape idylls translated into a rich palette of greens, browns, blacks, and blues. Prints of flowers and tapestries were translated into dresses, pants, button-ups, and trousers. Fabrics billowed, ballooned, and draped creating movement like the breeze on a brisk walk in the country.

Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, dubbed the “Pastoral Collection,” stood out as one of the year’s best fashion shows due to its captivating fusion of art, nature, and fashion, along with Jonathan Anderson’s masterful storytelling. Here’s why this show resonated so strongly:

1. Inspired by Albert York: The collection’s connection to the work of artist Albert York lent it a deeply poetic and meditative quality. York’s paintings, often small and understated, evoke a sense of timeless beauty and simplicity, which Anderson translated into the pastoral theme of the collection. By displaying 14 of York’s works alongside the show, Loewe created a symbiotic relationship between art and fashion.

2. Innovative Venue: Held at the Château de Vincennes in Paris, the setting was transformed into an evocative green labyrinth, immersing attendees in a dreamlike interpretation of rolling hills and budding spring landscapes. This immersive environment enhanced the narrative of nature and renewal, aligning perfectly with the theme.

3. Palette and Textures: The rich, earthy palette—greens, browns, blacks, and blues—echoed natural landscapes and seasonal transitions. This was complemented by delicate floral prints and tapestry-inspired motifs that connected the pastoral imagery to the clothing.

4. Fabric and Movement: The collection’s fabrics—light and airy—were meticulously crafted to billow, balloon, and drape, mimicking the movement of wind across open fields. This attention to detail created a sense of dynamic beauty, evoking a brisk country walk or the vitality of the outdoors.

5. Romanticized Pastoral Aesthetic: Anderson’s approach romanticized the pastoral without succumbing to cliché. The designs balanced modernity and nostalgia, presenting rural influences in a contemporary light. This fresh perspective on pastoral themes felt relevant, inspiring, and artful.

6. Cultural and Emotional Resonance: The collection tapped into a broader cultural longing for nature, escape, and simplicity, resonating deeply in an era marked by urban complexity and digital overwhelm. By channeling this yearning through the lens of high fashion, Anderson created a deeply emotional experience.

Jonathan Anderson’s ability to integrate York’s subtle artistry with an immersive and forward-thinking runway presentation elevated Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 show to an exceptional level, making it a benchmark for creativity and innovation in the fashion world.

Miuccia Prada Embraces the Individual for Miu Miu 

Miu Miu by Miuccia Prada. Fall/Winter 2024, Paris

In a cathartic fall/winter 2024 presentation, designer and founder Miuccia Prada lifted sensorial memories of the past, collaging them with dramatic interludes of the present, for a crowning spectacle of life draped in the vivacity of Miu Miu. Contemporary icons Kristin Scott Thomas, Ethel Cain, Angel Haze, Qin Huilan, Guillaume Diop, Ángela Molina, and more shaped the runway’s richly visceral atmosphere with emotion and sophistication, while original compositions by musical artists Christelle Oyiri, Asma Maaroof, Joseph Schiano di Lombo, and Daniel Pineda enveloped the audience in rousing meditation. Within a supernatural show space, a succession of video installations by Belgian-American artist Cécile B. Evans immersed guests in humanistic progress and words of meaningful sentiment. Titled “Individual Moments,” the landscape shimmered with light and architectural movement, giving way to an expressive collection invoking the innocent flairs of childhood and the sumptuous fluency of adulthood. 

Miu Miu’s Fall/Winter 2024 show stood out as one of the most remarkable fashion presentations of the year due to its profound exploration of individuality, emotional resonance, and its captivating blend of art, fashion, and performance. Here’s why it was celebrated:

1. Miuccia Prada’s Visionary Approach: Miuccia Prada created a deeply personal collection titled “Individual Moments,” celebrating the unique journey of self-expression through the stages of life. By juxtaposing elements of childhood innocence with the elegance of adulthood, she captured a universal narrative that felt intimate yet expansive.

2. Star-Studded Emotional Energy: The runway was animated by an eclectic mix of contemporary icons, including Kristin Scott Thomas, Ethel Cain, and Ángela Molina, who brought layers of emotional depth and sophistication to the show. These personalities gave the presentation a theatrical quality, turning the runway into a dynamic tableau of lived experiences.

3. Immersive Show Space: The supernatural set design, featuring video installations by Belgian-American artist Cécile B. Evans, transformed the venue into a realm of humanistic reflection. These installations explored themes of progress, connection, and sentiment, enhancing the show’s narrative while engaging the audience in a multisensory experience.

4. Musical and Emotional Scoring: Original compositions by artists such as Christelle Oyiri, Asma Maaroof, and Daniel Pineda infused the show with an evocative soundscape. The music amplified the emotional depth of the collection, making the presentation as much a performance as it was a fashion event.

5. Richly Expressive Collection: The collection itself was a masterful exploration of contrasts, embodying youthful whimsy and refined sophistication. Miuccia Prada employed delicate, childlike embellishments alongside luxurious, tailored silhouettes, symbolizing the interplay between nostalgia and modernity. The result was a collection that felt deeply personal yet universally relatable.

6. Cultural and Architectural Layering: The shimmering light and architectural movement of the stage design reinforced the collection’s themes of progress and individuality. This dynamic space, paired with the layered storytelling of the clothes, created an environment where fashion became a medium for exploring identity and emotion.

7. Relevance to the Contemporary Moment: In a time when individuality and authenticity are celebrated more than ever, the show’s focus on self-expression and human connection struck a chord. Miuccia Prada’s ability to translate these values into wearable art made the collection not only relevant but deeply inspiring.

8. A Multi-Sensory Spectacle: Miu Miu’s FW24 show transcended the boundaries of a typical runway presentation, becoming an artistic and emotional event. Through its fusion of fashion, performance, and immersive art, the show captivated audiences and set a new standard for experiential storytelling in fashion.

This convergence of artistry, individuality, and emotional resonance made Miu Miu FW24 one of the defining fashion moments of 2024, highlighting Miuccia Prada’s unparalleled ability to connect with audiences on both a personal and cultural level.

Ronan Bouroullec Lends Drawings to Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Latest Collection

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake by Issey Miyake. Fall/Winter 2024-25, Paris

In Paris, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake debuted its fall/winter 2024-25 collection entitled “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity.” Presented at the Palais de Tokyo, the collection stemmed from a collaboration with Ronan Bouroullec. The artist and designer’s drawings were the starting point for the creative exchange—a second between Bouroullec and Issey Miyake. Bouroullec’s embrace of color, volume, texture, and movement was reflected in the clothing, both on the runway and lining the walls of the museum. The collection went beyond the use of Bouroullec’s art in a pattern or print. Instead, it fully embraced a conversation of concepts, an interpretation of ideas, and a translation from one material to the next.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection was celebrated as one of the best fashion shows of 2024 due to its harmonious fusion of art, design, and innovation. The collaboration with artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec elevated the show into a groundbreaking exploration of creativity and craftsmanship. Here’s why this collection stood out:

1. A Seamless Dialogue Between Fashion and Art: The collection wasn’t merely inspired by Ronan Bouroullec’s drawings; it embodied a profound conversation of concepts. The garments translated Bouroullec’s exploration of color, volume, texture, and movement into a tactile, wearable form, demonstrating the power of interdisciplinary collaboration.

2. Innovative Presentation at Palais de Tokyo: The show’s setting at the Palais de Tokyo, a hub of contemporary art, emphasized its avant-garde spirit. By lining the museum walls with Bouroullec’s drawings alongside the runway, the presentation immersed attendees in the creative process, offering a holistic experience of the collection’s artistic roots.

3. Thematic Exploration: “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity”: The collection’s title encapsulated its ethos, inviting audiences into an unbridled exploration of imagination. The designs reflected a sense of freedom and fluidity, aligning with Issey Miyake’s legacy of innovation and Bouroullec’s artistic philosophy.

4. Mastery of Color and Texture: Bouroullec’s vibrant color palette and textural contrasts were translated into the collection through:

Rich, Layered Hues: Earth tones interspersed with pops of brighter shades evoked natural and artistic landscapes.

Dynamic Textures: Pleated fabrics—a hallmark of Homme Plissé—took on new dimensions, echoing Bouroullec’s interplay of line and form.

5. Movement as a Design Principle: The collection celebrated the relationship between clothing and the human body in motion. Drawing from Bouroullec’s fluid designs, the garments exuded energy and adaptability, showcasing Homme Plissé’s iconic pleats in a fresh and dynamic way.

6. Beyond Patterns: Conceptual Translation: Instead of simply applying Bouroullec’s art as prints, the collection embodied the essence of his work. This conceptual translation from drawing to garment demonstrated an intellectual depth and artistic integrity that set the show apart.

7. Accessibility Meets High Art: The collection maintained Homme Plissé’s ethos of accessible, everyday luxury while embracing high-concept artistry. This balance made the designs both wearable and intellectually engaging, appealing to a diverse audience.

8. Interdisciplinary Innovation: The collaboration marked a second partnership between Bouroullec and Issey Miyake, but this iteration went deeper, emphasizing mutual creative evolution. It reinforced the idea that fashion can be a platform for interdisciplinary dialogue, not just aesthetic expression.

9. A Celebration of Legacy and Forward Momentum: The show honored Issey Miyake’s foundational principles of innovation, artistic collaboration, and movement. At the same time, it pushed these principles forward, evolving the brand’s identity for a new era.

10. Emotional and Intellectual Impact: The collection resonated emotionally through its fluid, organic designs and intellectually through its conceptual rigor. It invited the audience to engage with fashion as a medium of storytelling and artistic exchange.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection transcended traditional fashion presentations, transforming the runway into a space where art and design converged. By fully embracing Ronan Bouroullec’s creative world and translating it into wearable innovation, the show reaffirmed the brand’s position at the cutting edge of modern fashion. Its balance of artistry, craftsmanship, and wearability made it one of the year’s most memorable and celebrated runway events.

Chanel Haute Couture 2024 at the Palais Garnier

Chanel Haute Couture by Virginie Viard. Fall/Winter 2024-25, Paris

Promenading down the historic hallways and staircases of the 19th-century Neo-Baroque opera hall, Palais Garnier, was the Chanel haute couture collection for fall/winter 2024/25—Virginie Viard’s last collection for Chanel. Chanel continued its legacy as a timeless maison that fuses its fashion creations with an appreciation for the arts, particularly dance. Palais Garnier was a further testament to this dedication: the maison is a proud Major Patron of the Opéra National de Paris, Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra, and Patron of the institution’s dance season Opening Gala. The show’s set, designed by French writer and director Christophe Honoré, placed Chanel’s ensembles into the heart of Paris’ beloved performance space. This year marks 100 years since eponymous founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel began designing costumes for the ballet company Ballets Russes. 

The Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024/25 show at the historic Palais Garnier stood out as one of the best fashion presentations of 2024, not only for its stunning collection but also for its rich cultural significance, artistic collaborations, and emotional resonance. Here’s why the show was truly remarkable:

1. Virginie Viard’s Last Collection: This collection marked Virginie Viard’s final offering as Chanel’s creative director, making the event deeply significant and emotionally charged. It was a culmination of her tenure, showcasing her distinctive ability to balance modernity with the house’s storied heritage.

Viard’s designs were imbued with a sense of nostalgia and celebration, honoring Chanel’s legacy while solidifying her contributions to the maison’s ongoing evolution.

2. A Historic and Iconic Venue: The Palais Garnier, a 19th-century Neo-Baroque opera house in Paris, provided a breathtaking backdrop. Its grand staircases, intricate details, and historic resonance created a setting that complemented the elegance and artistry of haute couture.

Chanel’s choice of venue reinforced its ties to Parisian culture and the performing arts, elevating the show to a holistic cultural event.

3. A Celebration of Chanel’s Legacy in Dance: The collection honored Chanel’s century-long connection to the world of dance, marking 100 years since Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel designed costumes for the Ballets Russes. This history was woven into the show, from the venue choice to the designs themselves.

Chanel’s role as a Major Patron of the Opéra National de Paris, Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra, and supporter of the institution’s dance season Opening Gala further highlighted the maison’s enduring commitment to the arts.

4. Artistic Collaboration with Christophe Honoré: The set design by French writer and director Christophe Honoré transported Chanel’s couture into the heart of Paris’ beloved performance space. The fusion of theater and fashion added a layer of narrative depth, transforming the runway into a living tableau of artistry.

Honoré’s vision emphasized the interplay between Chanel’s designs and the rich cultural heritage of the Palais Garnier.

5. Couture Excellence: The collection showcased Chanel’s timeless codes—from intricate embroidery and tweed to flowing silhouettes and classic black-and-white palettes—reinvented with fresh, contemporary details.

The pieces paid homage to dance, with ballet-inspired elements such as tulle, delicate draping, and ethereal fabrics that moved gracefully as models promenaded down the grand staircases.

6. Emotional Resonance: The show was not only a celebration of haute couture but also a poignant farewell to Virginie Viard, making it a landmark moment in Chanel’s history. This emotional weight resonated deeply with attendees and the wider fashion community.

The connection to Gabrielle Chanel’s work with the Ballets Russes added an additional layer of sentimentality, bridging the maison’s past with its present.

7. Fusion of Art and Fashion: By integrating haute couture with the arts, particularly dance and theater, Chanel demonstrated the power of fashion as a medium for storytelling and cultural preservation.

The collection’s presentation within the architectural splendor of the Palais Garnier symbolized the enduring relationship between art, performance, and couture.

8. Timeless Elegance with Modern Flourishes: The designs balanced the maison’s signature sophistication with contemporary touches, ensuring the collection felt relevant while honoring Chanel’s heritage.

The couture pieces were tailored to perfection, reflecting the exceptional craftsmanship of the house’s ateliers.

Chanel’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024/25 show at the Palais Garnier was a masterpiece that transcended fashion. By combining Virginie Viard’s final creative vision with a celebration of Chanel’s century-long relationship with dance, set against the backdrop of one of Paris’ most iconic landmarks, the show became a profound tribute to the maison’s legacy and its future.

Louis Vuitton’s Art as Life Universe Illuminated by Laurent Grasso Paintings 

Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière. Spring/Summer 2025, Paris

Nicolas Ghesquière, the ever-inspired Artistic Director of Women’s Collections at Louis Vuitton, unveiled a patchwork of tender and tenacious looks for Spring/Summer 2025 in Paris. Atop a soaring runway collaging the maison’s opulent trunks, models donned garments with inherent duality, preparing mind, body, and soul for the cross-cultural voyage ahead. Geometric patterns and perceptive tailoring infused all with a forward momentum, and delicate fabrics offered light as air wearability. Each and every look presented was both pristine and poetic, intermingling the dark and the light for multi-dimensional feminine prowess. A masterful collaboration with artist Laurent Grasso debuted paintings of the Studies into the Past series cascading across singular day to night ensembles, while the musical stylings of Jamie XX and new album “In Waves” lulled guests into a magnetic art as life universe. 

Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, directed by Nicolas Ghesquière, stood out as one of the best fashion presentations of 2024 due to its profound artistry, innovative design, and immersive storytelling. Here’s why it captivated audiences and critics alike:

1. Thematic Depth: “Art as Life”: The collection’s foundation rested on the concept of art as life, a theme that resonated deeply with contemporary sensibilities. By blending wearable designs with high art, the show bridged the divide between fashion and artistic expression, creating a truly multidisciplinary experience.

2. Collaboration with Laurent Grasso: The collaboration with artist Laurent Grasso was a cornerstone of the show. His Studies into the Past paintings—evoking Renaissance aesthetics with a contemporary twist—were seamlessly integrated into the garments. This fusion elevated the collection, presenting clothing as a canvas for cultural dialogue and artistic exploration.

3. Nicolas Ghesquière’s Vision: Ghesquière showcased his signature ability to balance dualities: tender yet tenacious, light yet dark. The collection exuded multi-dimensionality, empowering femininity while maintaining an ethereal quality. This nuanced approach gave the collection a poetic complexity rarely seen on the runway.

4. Innovative Design Elements:

Geometric Patterns and Tailoring: The intricate geometric patterns and perceptive tailoring symbolized forward momentum, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s ethos of continual innovation.

Light-as-Air Fabrics: These fabrics emphasized wearability and modern elegance, ensuring the designs felt grounded despite their artistic inspirations.

Day-to-Night Ensembles: The versatility of the pieces, enhanced by Grasso’s cascading artworks, demonstrated Ghesquière’s mastery in merging practicality with couture.

5. Runway as Narrative: The show’s soaring runway, constructed atop a collage of Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunks, symbolized a journey—both literal and metaphorical. It celebrated the maison’s legacy of travel and exploration, tying the collection to Louis Vuitton’s core identity.

6. Multi-Sensory Experience:

Music by Jamie XX: The debut of Jamie XX’s “In Waves” provided a hypnotic auditory backdrop, heightening the show’s immersive quality and mirroring the rhythmic flow of the designs.

Visual Spectacle: The interplay of Grasso’s paintings with the set design and lighting created a universe that felt both transcendent and grounded, pulling guests into a magnetic “art as life” narrative.

7. Cultural and Emotional Resonance: In an era marked by the blending of cultures and disciplines, the collection celebrated diversity and the interconnectedness of art forms. The garments were not merely clothes but symbols of a global, cross-cultural voyage.

8. Forward Momentum: By marrying artistic collaboration with cutting-edge design, Ghesquière reaffirmed Louis Vuitton’s position at the forefront of fashion innovation. The collection not only reflected the present but also pushed the boundaries of what fashion can achieve as a cultural medium.

This masterful fusion of art, innovation, and storytelling made Louis Vuitton SS25 a defining moment in contemporary fashion, demonstrating the maison’s ability to evolve while remaining true to its storied legacy.

Gucci Creative Director Sabato De Sarno Presents a Luminous Ode to Life

Gucci by Sabato De Sarno. Fall/Winter 2024, Milan

Gucci Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s Ancora Manifesto collection for Fall/Winter 2024 was a luminous ode to the shimmering facets of our everyday lives—brimming with emotion and jubilant connection. An eye-catching, pea-green bomber jacket with dynamic pocket designs was paired with matching leather gloves and handbag, grounded with soft black trousers and silver studded shoes. Exuberant day looks continued with a navy sweater spotlighting an open collar of radiant jewels, situated gracefully atop baggy jeans. Sensual long coats grazed the floor in shades of cocoa and periwinkle, while ribbon-like scarves with chain detailing added whimsical movement. The sparkle of evening beckoned with models donning luminous leather coats, fringe jackets, and kaleidoscopic tanks. With Gucci, every moment was a celebration.

Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Ancora Manifesto, designed by Sabato De Sarno, was celebrated as one of the year’s best fashion shows because of its joyful celebration of life, masterful design, and innovative approach to everyday glamour. Here’s why the collection stood out:

1. Sabato De Sarno’s Fresh Vision for Gucci: This was De Sarno’s first full year at the helm of Gucci, and Ancora Manifesto showcased his ability to breathe fresh life into the brand. By focusing on the emotional and jubilant connections in everyday moments, he infused Gucci’s heritage with contemporary relevance and human warmth.

2. A Luminous Ode to Everyday Life: The collection’s theme, a celebration of the shimmering beauty in the mundane, resonated deeply in a time when people are seeking joy in simplicity. The designs emphasized that even the most ordinary moments can be elevated through style and creativity.

3. Dynamic Daywear: De Sarno excelled in crafting versatile daywear that balanced boldness with accessibility:

Pea-Green Bomber Jacket: Eye-catching and practical, with dynamic pocket designs, paired with gloves and a handbag, it redefined utilitarian chic.

Navy Sweater with Jewel Detailing: This elegant yet relaxed piece, layered over baggy jeans, epitomized the effortless glamour of modern casual wear.

4. Refined Outerwear: Long, floor-grazing coats in rich shades of cocoa and periwinkle stood out as standout pieces. These designs combined sensuality with functionality, making them both statement-making and wearable.

The ribbon-like scarves with chain detailing added a sense of movement and whimsy, elevating even the simplest ensembles.

5. Exuberant Eveningwear: The evening looks sparkled with De Sarno’s vision for celebration:

Luminous Leather Coats: These high-gloss pieces blended edgy sophistication with luxury.

Fringe Jackets and Kaleidoscopic Tanks: These pieces exuded energy and playfulness, making a strong case for bold, statement eveningwear.

6. Accessory Innovation: Accessories played a pivotal role in anchoring the collection, from leather gloves and matching handbags to silver-studded shoes. These details highlighted De Sarno’s attention to craftsmanship and his commitment to enhancing the total look.

7. Whimsical Yet Wearable: De Sarno skillfully balanced whimsy and practicality, ensuring that the collection was both aspirational and accessible. This approach appealed to a wide audience, making the pieces covetable for everyday wear while maintaining high-fashion allure.

8. Celebration of Gucci’s Legacy: While the collection felt modern and fresh, it also honored Gucci’s heritage of bold, luxurious design. De Sarno’s ability to innovate within the framework of the brand’s storied past demonstrated his mastery as a creative director.

9. Emotional Resonance: The collection’s emphasis on joy, connection, and celebration made it especially poignant. At a time when audiences are craving optimism and vibrancy, De Sarno delivered a collection that felt both deeply personal and universally inspiring.

10. Every Moment as a Celebration: The Ancora Manifesto collection embodied the philosophy that fashion can elevate every moment into something extraordinary. Whether through daywear, outerwear, or evening looks, the collection turned the runway into a jubilant ode to life.

Gucci FW24 was a triumph of creativity, emotion, and craftsmanship, marking Sabato De Sarno’s reign with an unforgettable celebration of individuality and the beauty in everyday experiences. It reaffirmed Gucci’s place at the heart of contemporary fashion while setting an exciting tone for the brand’s future.

Hermès Men’s Soft and Sultry Summer 2025 Runway Show 

Hermès by Véronique Nichanian. Menswear Summer 2025, Paris

The Hermès Men’s Summer 2025 runway collection was a dazzling and effortless endeavor, featuring garments which flowed with ease and sophistication around the body. Ethereal, pastel colors reminiscent of both the city and the country meshed purely with darker, moodier tones, culminating in a poem of soft and sultry summer days and nights. The act of men’s dressing was a deft and decadent endeavor with Hermès, where charming details from lyrical floral prints to stylish knots of fabric sparked comfort and confidence. Singular docker hats, strapped sandals, and debonair evening jackets marked this warm weather collection as one to cherish and allude to for seasons to come. 

The Hermès Men’s Summer 2025 collection was widely regarded as one of the standout fashion shows of 2024 due to its masterful blend of effortless elegance, thoughtful design, and a poetic approach to men’s summer dressing. Here’s why it resonated so strongly:

1. Effortless Sophistication: The collection exuded a sense of ease and refinement, showcasing garments that flowed naturally around the body. This effortless aesthetic epitomized luxury without pretension, making it both aspirational and approachable.

2. Poetic Use of Color:

Pastels and Moody Tones: The ethereal pastel shades, inspired by city and countryside landscapes, harmonized beautifully with darker, moodier hues. This interplay created a versatile palette that captured the duality of summer—bright and carefree by day, sultry and mysterious by night.

3. Thoughtful Details: Hermès elevated men’s dressing to an art form by incorporating:

Lyrical Floral Prints: Subtle yet impactful, these prints brought a sense of whimsy and romance to the collection.

Stylish Fabric Knots: These small but striking details added a touch of individuality and craftsmanship, emphasizing the maison’s commitment to artistry.

4. Accessories with Character: The collection’s accessories added depth and character:

Singular Docker Hats: These stylish and modern takes on a classic silhouette lent a playful yet polished vibe.

Strapped Sandals: These pieces combined comfort with high-fashion appeal, perfectly suited for warm weather.

Debonair Evening Jackets: Tailored yet relaxed, these jackets bridged the gap between formal and casual, ideal for summer soirées.

5. Seasonal Versatility: The designs catered to various summer settings, from breezy countryside escapes to sophisticated city evenings. This versatility ensured the collection felt relevant to a wide range of lifestyles and occasions.

6. Celebration of Comfort and Confidence: Hermès seamlessly integrated comfort into luxury, crafting garments that allowed men to move freely while exuding confidence. The focus on ease and wearability highlighted a modern approach to men’s fashion.

7. Thematic Cohesion: The collection evoked the essence of summer—soft, sultry, and nostalgic. Every element, from color choices to fabric selection and styling, contributed to a cohesive narrative that felt like a love letter to the season.

8. Timeless Appeal: While the collection was distinctly modern, it also embraced timeless design principles. The balance of innovation and classic elegance ensured that the pieces would remain relevant for years to come.

9. Masterful Presentation: The runway show itself, with its serene atmosphere and flowing garments, mirrored the collection’s ethos. The fluid movement of the clothes on the models emphasized their lightness and sophistication, creating an unforgettable visual experience.

10. The Essence of Hermès: Hermès stayed true to its heritage of impeccable craftsmanship and understated luxury while pushing boundaries in men’s fashion. The collection exemplified the maison’s ability to redefine elegance in ways that feel fresh yet familiar.

The Hermès Men’s Summer 2025 collection stood out as a celebration of the modern man—confident, sophisticated, and at ease. Its poetic approach to summer dressing, combined with timeless craftsmanship and contemporary details, solidified its place as one of the most memorable fashion shows of 2024.

Miu Miu’s Sleek and Sincere Spring/Summer 2025 Runway with Artist Goshka Macuga

Miu Miu by Miuccia Prada. Spring/Summer 2025, Paris

“Salt Looks Like Sugar” was the enigmatic title of Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway, further evolving Miuccia Prada’s tremendous partnerships with the most forward-thinking female creatives of our time. An enveloping catwalk activation by Goshka Macuga—a deft echoing of the artist’s Art Basel Paris 2024 installation—raised the curtain on “The Truthless Times” newspaper production. Juxtaposed with a cinematic short film and digital printing press scenography spotlighting the spread of misinformation, VIP attendees were offered pure authenticity in fashion. An innocent white cotton dress commenced the story of soulful rebirth, and a brilliant partnership between Miu Miu and Petit Bateau met our yearning to return to the classics in a fresh light. The presentation brimmed with luminaries like Willem Dafoe, Hilary Swank, Cara Delevingne, and Alexa Chung wearing new Miu Miu uniforms: silk exhibiting as nylon, draped chemisette cotton dresses, and sweaters wrapped in novel rhythms around the torso. 

Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, “Salt Looks Like Sugar,” stood out as one of the most remarkable fashion presentations of 2024 due to its innovative storytelling, artistic collaborations, and fresh reinterpretations of timeless fashion. Here’s why it captured the industry’s attention:

1. Thought-Provoking Theme and Title: The enigmatic title “Salt Looks Like Sugar” set the tone for a show exploring contrasts and societal illusions, particularly the challenges of navigating truth in the modern age. This intellectual premise added depth and intrigue to the collection, elevating it beyond mere fashion into a conceptual statement.

2. Collaboration with Goshka Macuga: Miuccia Prada continued her tradition of collaborating with leading female creatives by partnering with Goshka Macuga. The artist’s activation—an echo of her Art Basel Paris 2024 installation—featured “The Truthless Times” newspaper production, symbolizing the pervasive spread of misinformation. This thought-provoking scenography provided a meaningful backdrop, merging art, media, and fashion.

3. Immersive Presentation: The runway’s cinematic short film and digital printing press scenography immersed attendees in a multi-sensory experience. By juxtaposing the modern issue of misinformation with the purity and sincerity of the collection, Miuccia Prada created a compelling dialogue between the digital and physical realms.

4. Soulful Rebirth through Fashion: The collection opened with an innocent white cotton dress, symbolizing a fresh start and soulful rebirth. This simplicity, paired with impeccable craftsmanship, reflected a yearning for authenticity in an increasingly chaotic world.

5. Nostalgic Collaboration with Petit Bateau: The partnership with Petit Bateau breathed new life into nostalgic classics, offering timeless wardrobe staples reimagined with contemporary flair. This collaboration resonated with a collective desire to return to the basics, grounded in quality and tradition.

6. Reinventing the Uniform: Miu Miu introduced its “new uniforms” that redefined everyday essentials:

Silk as Nylon: Lightweight and fluid, the material defied expectations, blending luxury with practicality.

Draped Chemisette Cotton Dresses: These elegant yet understated pieces bridged formality and ease.

Novel Sweater Wrapping: Sweaters styled in unexpected rhythms around the torso showcased Miuccia Prada’s knack for inventiveness and playfulness.

7. Star-Studded Front Row and Runway: Celebrities like Willem Dafoe, Hilary Swank, Cara Delevingne, and Alexa Chung added glamour and star power to the event, emphasizing the collection’s cultural relevance. Their appearances in key pieces highlighted the versatility and universal appeal of the designs.

8. Balancing Innocence and Subversion: The collection danced between themes of innocence and subversion, playing with traditional materials and silhouettes while incorporating modern twists. This duality reflected the complexities of contemporary identity, making the designs deeply resonant.

9. Social Commentary: By tackling the theme of misinformation and truth, Miu Miu’s show became a platform for social commentary. The scenography and artistic collaboration emphasized fashion’s potential to engage with critical issues, sparking meaningful discussions beyond aesthetics.

10. Authenticity in an Age of Uncertainty: Amid a backdrop of societal confusion and mistrust, Miu Miu offered a vision of authenticity. The collection’s purity of design and the sincerity of its presentation served as a counterpoint to the noise of modern life, making it both timely and timeless.

Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway was a masterclass in combining artistic innovation, cultural critique, and wearable fashion. By exploring profound themes through striking collaborations and fresh design approaches, Miuccia Prada reaffirmed the brand’s role as a leader in fashion’s intellectual and creative evolution. The show’s balance of substance and style made it an unforgettable highlight of 2024.